House now complete (inside!)

We had a good trip back from Guatemala to North Wales, then had a nightmare drive through UK traffic, stopping in Birmingham to visit J,s nephew and family, arriving at the ferry with minutes to spare.  It was a relaxing drive back through France where it was nose to the grindstone almost immediately.  We had plaster-boarded the utility room before we left in December so it was out with the paint brushes then laying the floor tiles, then installing IKEA units, doing the plumbing, hiding all the services and finally bringing the washing machine up from the barn where it had worked for over three years. 

But it didn't like its new surroundings and refused to work in the house.  We hunted for a new one but - just like magic - it decided that all was well and has been happily washing and spinning ever since.

Meanwhile we seemed to be out a lot, first dinner with friends, then a fancy dress in town (sorry, no pics) then a big pig meal and then the rugby club fest.  March was just mad for events.

We decided to get rid of our old settees and add some furniture to one wall so another two trips to IKEA in Toulouse to order the new settees then pick up them and other stuff (there's always other stuff when one goes to IKEA!).

Went away in the caravan for a long Easter weekend - great walking country north of us and south of the Lot.  Weather had been iffy all the time we were back but the sun shone all Easter day and has been shining ever since.

Installed the IKEA stuff when we got back so everything inside the house is done - celebration time!

This last weekend was the walking rally (a quiz on foot) at Condom: great weather, great company and a great lunch afterwards.

Now we've got a lot of little things to do (like tax returns for France and the UK, shifting a huge pile of logs, etc), but the next big step is to do the decking at the front of the house.  We're also waiting for planning permission to put up a garden shed - one of the disadvantages of living within the conservation zone of Montreal.

Today (13th April) was the first day we had our evening meal outside, so we think the good weather is here at last.  Everyone says how late spring is this year.  Roll on summer!

Goodbye Guatemala

Decided to have a couple of days away from the tourist spots so headed up into the western highlands. On the 6am "school run" ferry to Pana then shuttle up the main highway towards Mexico where we were picked up by a taxi to take us to Huehuetenango. Got a local bus to Todos Santos way up in the mountains, arriving early afternoon. All the men wear local traditional costume here, not just the women. A town of about 2000 people, quite isolated by the mountains and in a valley at 2500 metres.

Found a nice room and contacted a local guide. Brother ran the electrical shop and explained that about half the population were working in the USA and sending money home to support family here. He'd been to university in Marseille! Booked guided walk for the morning. This used to be a dry town but there are bars now, got accosted by local drunk while waiting to meet guide! Good coffee and cakes.

Breakfast was coffee, cakes and orange juice for 80p. Then while waiting for bus with guide a Danish couple arrived and decided to join us. They were interesting all day. Started at 3000 metres (not feet!) and climbed to La Torre at 3887m the highest non-volcanic point in Central America. Then a very long steep descent to the sacred Mayan site of La Maceta among amazing limestone formations too big to photograph. Had turned cold and cloudy by our return, so banana cake and coffee went down well. Brilliant day.

Local bus back to Huehue next morning where we came down the final descent to the strains of Queen's "I want to break free". Then another crowded bus to Quetzaltenango (usually known as Xela) the second largest town in Guatemala. Found a room, shop, somewhere to eat - strange to be back in a city. Lights went out mid-meal so had candle-lit dinner and dark walk back.

Next morning managed to check in for our flight from Madrid to Liverpool, then walked the streets of Xela watching local life. Passed an amazing church then found Rodrigo Diaz' art museum, the only one in Xela. He has exhibited and sold around the world, especially in europe. After guided tour of Guatemalan art which he said gets no support - what a difference from Cuba - he ended up giving us a small painting and a hand-painted and signed t-shirt. Amazing experience! More wandering and watching, then the best coffee and bought a book written by the only(?) Mayan author.

Off to the hot springs at Fuentes Georginas where we cooked slowly until the clouds rolled in, teamed up with a Belgian lady away for 4 years. Whole area has hot baths but there are lots of volcanoes! Then market (fruit and veg as very fertile here) at Zunil and ornate church before return.

Safely back to Antigua via local buses after a recent spread on bus attacks in the paper. Shopping done quickly, bus booked to airport tomorrow. That's it, and thank you Guatemala.

At the lake

We left Coban in pouring rain so we were really lucky yesterday. Long trip to Lake Atitlan which is really beautiful. Staying in the hippy heaven village of San Marcos to relax and explore the area.

Boat to Pana then bus to the market at Sololá which was huge and where we bought stuff. Back to Pana where we bought more stuff. Rucsac full!
Heard all about the Chocolate Spirit on the boat on the way back.

Over to San Pedro which is the other main hub and party town. Booked a ticket out then strolled to the textile town of San Juan where we were shown how it's all done and Judy bought a scarf which is a week's work for a weaver. Back to rain coming through our (unglazed) skylight so emergency work by the hotel. It's the first rain for four months!

Walked along the lake via Tzununa and Jaibolito to Santa Cruz, about 3 hours, the last two over steep and rocky path. Lovely! On the road again tomorrow.

A couple of old ruins...

... Which was rather how we felt on January 31st after another long minibus ride heading north - we seem to get the oldest buses with the fastest drivers. Two rattly hours back to Coban where brakes needed checking, then about 3 hours downhill (with brakes) eventually reaching the island town of Flores just before sunset. Great roof terrace makes up for the very basic room. Amazing dawn chorus.

We've come all the way up here for the Mayan ruins and spent the first afternoon at Yaxhe, more difficult to get at and less exposed but magical in the jungle. Next day on the 4:30am bus to huge and famous Tikal. Misty and atmospheric until the sun appeared about 10am, then sunshine to explore until about 2pm when we were "ruined" and treated ourselves to an all-day Guatemalan breakfast. Brilliant day!

Headed south retracing our route over the numerous Guatemalan speed humps as far as Coban which is a major centre with very little to attract tourists so very interesting. Very fertile up here in the mountains so lots of fresh fruit and veg. Very tasty dinner and nice hotel.

They say it rains 13 months of the year in Coban but the sun shone on us. Caught 30p bus ride to Chamelco where we strolled around the market (wonderful food colours) and then out into the countryside which was well cultivated. Coffee and cake then back to Coban where Chris had the best haircut ever. Great day!

And now Guatemala

January 25th: a day of airports - Havana, Panama, Guatemala - but all went well. Night in an airport hotel before heading to Antigua, avoiding Guatemala City. Hotel has amazing Christmas model town! J still suffering a bit.

In Antigua about 1hr from the big city, a lovely old colonial town, a bit like Trinidad in Cuba, with cobbled streets but very buzzy. Lots of local life as well as tourists - this seems to be the place where travel is organised. Locals far outweigh tourists and it's very colourful compared to Cuba - really a different world. Shops, phone, wi-fi, back in the 21st century.

Trying to decide how to play our time here.

Woke very early to clear skies and managed to book on the 9am hike up the Pacaya volcano, still active. Great 3-hour hike with good guide. Amazing flower like a hen's foot. Cooked marshmallows and bananas in the lava, still hot from eruption in 2010. Ash, fumes and steam coming from the top. J bought lava earrings.
May have next few days planned.

Antigua has some lovely buildings and lots if ruins, but here they are mostly the result of the 1773 earthquake rather than neglect. Don't build amid volcanoes!

A long day heading north on a not-too-comfy minibus, first through the traffic in Guatemala City, then into more mountains, suddenly arriving in the cloud-forest around Coban. Very green, lush and cultivated but Dartmoor drizzle! Two hours more to Lanquin, last 12km over dirt roads - well, compacted rubble - and the idyllic El Retiro lodge where we dined well and slept in a loft beneath the palm thatch. Next day went to what we had come to see, the amazing pools at Semuc Panchey. Beautiful, great swim. The pools sit above an underground river and have a separate stream. Booked bus on to Flores.

Heading back to Havana

Another great museum before taking the (late) bus to Santa Clara, otherwise known as Che Guevara City. Arrived late and got taken around a few casas that were full then struck lucky with a English-speaking couple. Went looking for cheap beer and food but options very limited here, unlike other places. After Heinekens in a pizza bar (hmmm...) found the best cocktails so ended up dining off cocktails and hamburgers!

Next day changed some CUC's into MN, visited the lovely theatre, then strolled towards the place where Che and 18 guerrillas ambushed a train carrying over 400 Batista troops and won, starting the liberation of Santa Clara and signaling the beginning of the end for the Batista regime, which fell very quickly. Wonderful statue of him further on then headed for the hill from which he ran the assault. Hijacked by a Chinese-Cuban lady who took us to her house, told us about her family and showed us photos of her trips to Europe when she was a tour guide - quite poignant. Back to the centre where we realised we had walked in the wrong direction last night; now some restaurants to choose from. Stopped to have a beer then beard trimmed (Chris) and nails done (Judy).

Next day decidedly "off piste". Stopped at Colon where no tourists go. Nowhere to stay so asked group on street if they knew anywhere. Eventually one offered room and another offered meals, both in very poor houses. Bathroom was toilet and two buckets; one to flush, one to wash. I think we saw real Cuba! Visited art workshop and bought painting, not many 'sights' here. Arranged taxi for morning as bus prices are fixed between terminals so if you get off halfway (which we had) you have to pay twice - bizarre.

So on to Matanzas only 100km from Havana where we found a luxurious casa for a couple of nights. Went hunting for sights, cheap beer and food. Not a lot of choice of any, but another gently crumbling Cuban town built around a huge bay which is apparently Cuba's largest port. Good meal then ultra-modern cocktail bar. Judy ill in night.

So Chris went walkabout for the day to the old fort (quite expensive) with a very limited slavery museum and then the restored church up on the hill (cheap and great views) passing the Abraham Lincoln community centre on the way. Judy on starvation diet.

Shared a 1957 Bel Air taxi to Havana, as Viazul bus station way out and taxi in expensive. Arrived on heavy rain but wandered out to buy 3MN cakes. Trying to neither over- nor under-spend our last CUC's. Had a nice but expensive Cuban-Swedish fusion meal just up the road. Sea very rough.

Heading slowly east

Back to Cienfuegos for the short bus ride to Trinidad, possibly the most visited town in Cuba. It's old - mostly 19th century - but largely untouched. It's a must and very pretty and in a great position. Super museum.

Wandered around, climbed the hill for great views. Passed a huge bar dedicated to the Beatles! Had a good meal with super cocktails. The festival is in full swing but hours between bands. Caught the Afro-carribean Morris dancers. Locals vastly outnumber tourists when the buses have left.

And then it got "interesting"! The Viazul bus didn't arrive leaving about 20 of us stranded in Trinidad. Fortunately two other Spanish men were going to Sancti Spiritus so we got our money back and they negotiated a good deal for a taxi - only 1$ more than the bus. Relief!! A bit off the tourist trail here but found a place to stay, but no English spoken. Even our own sitting room. Wanted to go out to some mountains but no organised trip. Lots of hand-waving and a friend might get us there. Anyway, a nice town, lovely buildings around the square. Cheapest meal.

Friend came up trumps, even taking us up the dirt track to the ecological reserve in his 1957 Dodge. Twelve km hike with guide - prettiest we've ever had - and a swim in the pool below the waterfall. A grand day out!

Early bus next day to Ciega de Avila, rather off the tourist trail but allegedly with a great museum and interesting park. Arrived in the rain, got a bici-taxi to a reasonable casa, booked a ticket back out, but no buses going to where we fancied, so booked for Santa Clara. Cheap eats in a surprisingly flash restaurant.

Sunday morning and everyone is out on the streets. Brilliant museum, then to huge city park. Described as best in Cuba could be best anywhere, lots of families having fun. Old steam engines, scrap sculptures, old aircraft as restaurant. Ate there on the evening. Town and park still buzzing at night .

Moneda National is the way here so very cheap everywhere except casas, but 25$ B&B for two is not bad with excellent brekky. Only town we've had to query restaurant bills, though.