Heading back to Havana

Another great museum before taking the (late) bus to Santa Clara, otherwise known as Che Guevara City. Arrived late and got taken around a few casas that were full then struck lucky with a English-speaking couple. Went looking for cheap beer and food but options very limited here, unlike other places. After Heinekens in a pizza bar (hmmm...) found the best cocktails so ended up dining off cocktails and hamburgers!

Next day changed some CUC's into MN, visited the lovely theatre, then strolled towards the place where Che and 18 guerrillas ambushed a train carrying over 400 Batista troops and won, starting the liberation of Santa Clara and signaling the beginning of the end for the Batista regime, which fell very quickly. Wonderful statue of him further on then headed for the hill from which he ran the assault. Hijacked by a Chinese-Cuban lady who took us to her house, told us about her family and showed us photos of her trips to Europe when she was a tour guide - quite poignant. Back to the centre where we realised we had walked in the wrong direction last night; now some restaurants to choose from. Stopped to have a beer then beard trimmed (Chris) and nails done (Judy).

Next day decidedly "off piste". Stopped at Colon where no tourists go. Nowhere to stay so asked group on street if they knew anywhere. Eventually one offered room and another offered meals, both in very poor houses. Bathroom was toilet and two buckets; one to flush, one to wash. I think we saw real Cuba! Visited art workshop and bought painting, not many 'sights' here. Arranged taxi for morning as bus prices are fixed between terminals so if you get off halfway (which we had) you have to pay twice - bizarre.

So on to Matanzas only 100km from Havana where we found a luxurious casa for a couple of nights. Went hunting for sights, cheap beer and food. Not a lot of choice of any, but another gently crumbling Cuban town built around a huge bay which is apparently Cuba's largest port. Good meal then ultra-modern cocktail bar. Judy ill in night.

So Chris went walkabout for the day to the old fort (quite expensive) with a very limited slavery museum and then the restored church up on the hill (cheap and great views) passing the Abraham Lincoln community centre on the way. Judy on starvation diet.

Shared a 1957 Bel Air taxi to Havana, as Viazul bus station way out and taxi in expensive. Arrived on heavy rain but wandered out to buy 3MN cakes. Trying to neither over- nor under-spend our last CUC's. Had a nice but expensive Cuban-Swedish fusion meal just up the road. Sea very rough.