Sunday, 14 June 2026

Tartu part 3

Lovely buildings,

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and the botanic gardens.

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Tartu part 2

Sunday afternoon we strolled around Tartu, via statues, 

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the ruined cathedral 

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and the superb botanical gardens.

Then the heavens opened and we had the town square in the wet.

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A beautiful town, lots of parks and interesting buildings.

Heading further north tomorrow.

Estonia - Tartu part 1

Our buses from Aluksne to the border town of Valka worked fine, then we had a three hour wait for the fast bus to Tartu.  Crossed the border, such as it was, 

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to look around the old town on the Estonian side

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then stupidly missed the bus!!  Quick  panic, but found a helpful lady who found us two onward local buses so got here two hours late.

A day of rain drove us to the Estonian National Museum - brilliant, spent the whole day there.  

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Lots of recent history about how Estonia got to be the way it is with testimony from people who lived through it, descriptions of their lives, just great.  Loads of interactive stuff, mock ups of rooms, huts, tents, a truly amazing place.

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Thursday, 11 June 2026

Back in "FLatvia" ...

... but not for long.  Had a very nice walk and lunch before leaving Ignalina, first via Utena (great park and tea), then across the border to Daugavpils for one night.  Then northwards again to Aluksne, at one point within sight of the Russian border, big fence topped by razor wire and (empty) watch towers.  A scenic bus ride followed through occasional villages and hamlets, sometimes on dirt roads, a real social service.

Much less English spoken this eastern side of Latvia and Lithuania, but we manage.

Had a "severe weather" warning for this afternoon so set off early for a lovely walk around Aluksne lake, 

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past the new castle 

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and the old!

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But, as someone said, it's a good time to be here, between the snow and the mosquitoes!  And the spring wild flowers are exceptional.

North again tomorrow, into Estonia.


Monday, 8 June 2026

Ignalina bike ride

Lots of lakes,

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flowers 

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small villages (they sold ice cream here, not in cones but in a waffle folded into a cone!)

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and wood carvings.

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Lithuania's land of lakes...

... better known as Aukstaitija National Park is in the far northeast, not far from the Russian and Latvian borders.  Had to pass through Vilnius again so ate curries at the same market stall before taking our first train up to Ignalina, 

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a lovely small town founded as a station when the St Petersburg to Warsaw railway was built!

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Rented two all-terrain e-bikes to cycle 30km around some lakes and through forest - it was surprisingly hilly and sandy, but lovely and almost perfect weather, there were even people swimming in the lakes - not us!  The wild flowers are beautiful - here it's lupin and. cow parsley season, they're everywhere, fields, roadsides, forests.

Weather not so good the next day but had a great walk through local villages

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with painted houses - really picturesque.

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We only got wet the last couple of kilometres.

Ignalina is a town that is easier to get into than out of - unless you want to go back to Vilnius. We don't , we're heading up the east side of Latvia, so a couple of days of cross-country bussing, hoping they connect, Tallinn in Estonia being the eventual goal.



Friday, 5 June 2026

Furthest south

Now in Druskininka, nearly at the borders of Poland and Belarus.  Stopped in Merkine to walk in the Dzujika national park which was lovely, but less interesting than expected, fairly flat (good!), very wooded and surprisingly sandy.  Continental dunes left after the last ice-age apparently.  

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Merkine was also a historic place in Lithuanian history (with its almost obligatory hill fort) but we're now used to the idea that everywhere is!  While waiting for the bus we were with a group of school kids, one 8-year old spoke almost perfect English, said he'd learnt it mostly from films, and he translated for the teachers! (Kid on end left)


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Druskininkai is holiday central for Lithuanians and, especially, Poles.  There are spas, a huge Aquapark and a year-round indoor snow slope.  The weather changed so we decided to have a lazy day, getting pampered in the afternoon. 

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Well, we are on holiday!  And was it good?  YES!