Goodbye Guatemala

Decided to have a couple of days away from the tourist spots so headed up into the western highlands. On the 6am "school run" ferry to Pana then shuttle up the main highway towards Mexico where we were picked up by a taxi to take us to Huehuetenango. Got a local bus to Todos Santos way up in the mountains, arriving early afternoon. All the men wear local traditional costume here, not just the women. A town of about 2000 people, quite isolated by the mountains and in a valley at 2500 metres.

Found a nice room and contacted a local guide. Brother ran the electrical shop and explained that about half the population were working in the USA and sending money home to support family here. He'd been to university in Marseille! Booked guided walk for the morning. This used to be a dry town but there are bars now, got accosted by local drunk while waiting to meet guide! Good coffee and cakes.

Breakfast was coffee, cakes and orange juice for 80p. Then while waiting for bus with guide a Danish couple arrived and decided to join us. They were interesting all day. Started at 3000 metres (not feet!) and climbed to La Torre at 3887m the highest non-volcanic point in Central America. Then a very long steep descent to the sacred Mayan site of La Maceta among amazing limestone formations too big to photograph. Had turned cold and cloudy by our return, so banana cake and coffee went down well. Brilliant day.

Local bus back to Huehue next morning where we came down the final descent to the strains of Queen's "I want to break free". Then another crowded bus to Quetzaltenango (usually known as Xela) the second largest town in Guatemala. Found a room, shop, somewhere to eat - strange to be back in a city. Lights went out mid-meal so had candle-lit dinner and dark walk back.

Next morning managed to check in for our flight from Madrid to Liverpool, then walked the streets of Xela watching local life. Passed an amazing church then found Rodrigo Diaz' art museum, the only one in Xela. He has exhibited and sold around the world, especially in europe. After guided tour of Guatemalan art which he said gets no support - what a difference from Cuba - he ended up giving us a small painting and a hand-painted and signed t-shirt. Amazing experience! More wandering and watching, then the best coffee and bought a book written by the only(?) Mayan author.

Off to the hot springs at Fuentes Georginas where we cooked slowly until the clouds rolled in, teamed up with a Belgian lady away for 4 years. Whole area has hot baths but there are lots of volcanoes! Then market (fruit and veg as very fertile here) at Zunil and ornate church before return.

Safely back to Antigua via local buses after a recent spread on bus attacks in the paper. Shopping done quickly, bus booked to airport tomorrow. That's it, and thank you Guatemala.