There were demonstrations and road blocks in Haryana state, just west of Delhi, but we were in Rajasthan where all seemed quiet. So we headed to the abandoned town of Fatehpur Sikri, just over the border in Uttar Pradesh 20km back towards Agra. Buses on strike so took a shared taxi. Fatehpur Sikri was amazing and was the first place we came across loads of foreign tourists. Stopped for lunch then tried to get back to Bharatpur but the road was blocked after about 10km. A kind truck driver tried to get us through but we had to go back. Sat in the hotel where we had lunched and it turned out that the owner was a friend of Tarun and Arun where we were staying. So later in the evening when the road was still blocked they agreed that we'd stay overnight (no bags, clothes, toothbrush even) and try again in the morning.
Try we did and the owner picked up an Indian couple who spoke English who were also trying to get to Bharatpur and drove us to the road block. Along the way we passed loads of lorries and a few coaches full of tourists who had obviously been stuck there overnight. With our new Indian friends we walked about 1km along the blocked road past groups of unfriendly- looking protesters and eventually got met by Arun in his car. What a relief!
We had a train booked out at 4pm but we learned in the morning that it was cancelled as protesters had blocked the railway line. Only chance was a possible train back to Agra at 5pm. So we went to get some money but no ATM would work - panic! Apparently the district magistrate had ordered the internet closed. But an hour later we struck lucky and emptied a cash machine. Back to the station at 3pm to see if the 5 o'clock would leave. Still no decision by 6pm when an enterprising taxi driver offered to run the blockade and take us to Agra (80km) for an exorbitant sum. We agreed, otherwise could have been stuck for days.
A 3-hour white-knuckle ride between parked or moving lorries, along the verges, dodging other vehicles brought us to Agra Cantt railway station. Off to the ticket office to see when the next train left for Sawai Madopur - we had 10 minutes but the only space was in "general" - get a seat if you're lucky. We weren't so sat on the floor with the unwashed masses. Got into Sawai Madopur just before 3am but our hotel had saved our room. We slept, much relieved to be away from the troubles.
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