The Air India flight was good and the e-visa worked, but the bank card didn't, even though we had told them. So had to call them, that worked, but then ran out of phone credit and the old credit card linked to the phone had expired. Full marks to Truphone help who took all the new details in a long and rambling call - free. Taxi from hotel was waiting outside although our email said wait inside, but then everything good.
Walked about a bit, accosted by sundry tuk-tuk drivers, misdirected to "official" tourist offices, found the real one, then had very late veggie lunch.
Walked over to Old Delhi next day to visit biggest mosque in India and then the Red Fort which was more of a palace and maltreated by the invading British. All very interesting. Found another good lunch then hit the back alleys heading towards the river and Gandhi's cremation place. Finally gave in and took a cycle rickshaw back. Went for a beer in a bar with an Indian rock band who were good.
Did New Delhi next day, the Lutyens/Baker designed official buildings, bought a carpet, did National Museum and when head was full had a great Chinese meal in Khan market area where you could eat anything but Indian. Humayun's tomb where 160 Mughal bodies - emperors, wives, children - are buried rounded off the day. Maybe time for another beer!
Maybe the beer wasn't such a good idea. First we had a problem with a 500 rupee (£5) note; it was all we had taken but they refused it as it had a crease down the middle. We were accompanied back to our hotel where we handed over another. Then the beer disagreed with Judy. Have seen her worse!
Next morning were taken around a huge Sikh temple by our Sikh taxi driver. Fascinating mix of Hindu and Muslim, and only 2% of Indians. We get a different impression in the UK. Took the train to Agra in " sleeper " class which is where most Indians travel; padded benches, no air- con just open windows. Fortunately Judy could stretch out across a 3-seater bench.
And then it all fell apart. We had booked a tuk-tuk for 6:30am for an early view of the Taj Mahal, but Judy had terrible diarrhoea and vomiting during the night so all cancelled. The guys in our hotel (the Tourist Rest House) were brilliant, helpful and sympathetic. Went to find antibiotics and antiemetic and rehydration powder. We had train booked at 6pm to move on to Bharatpur, fortunately not too far away, and a home stay booked for 3 nights.
Train left 20mins early but we had plenty of time and travelled in more luxurious A/C Chair class. Bharatpur is next to the Keoladeo National Park which is reputedly India's best birdwatching spot. The drugs had worked for Judy so we spent the morning there with our naturalist guide from the Kiran Guest House and saw lots of birds, especially water fowl, and the occasional antelope and jackal. Chilled out in the afternoon then strolled about 2km into town. En route, children wanted to try a few words of English and we were the only Europeans in town. Lots of stares but felt entirely safe.
The vast majority of tourists here (including Delhi and Agra) are Indian. We often get asked if they can have their photos taken with us. Interesting!
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