More Chittaurgarh pic

Too big for a single post

More peaceful now

The only reason for going to Sawai Madopur is to visit the Ranthambhore
Tiger Reserve an amazing rugged area protected for a small number of wild
tigers. It's supposed to have the best chance of seeing a tiger in the wild
but the chances are still only about 1 in 5. We weren't lucky but had a
great 3 hours in the jungle.

Train out at 05:25 next morning but another day, another cancellation. No
trains to our destination at Chittaurgarh but one part way at Kota. Again
no reservation so "general" ticket but managed to grab two bunks. Paid a
fortune to taxi the rest but reached our luxury stay at the Pamina Haveli,
had shower, superb lunch and siesta. The Haveli is actually within the old
fort, way above the town. Short stroll around, already impressed, will do
more tomorrow.

Chittaurgarh is superb: a huge plateau about 5km by 1km surrounded by
battlements which enclose a collection of palaces in various states of ruin
but nearly all visitable and lots of intricately-carved temples, along with
sundry towers and lakes. We hired two bikes and did it all. Saw the weekly
sound and light show in the main palace, had a great evening meal then to
bed before catching the 06:20 train to Udaipur.

Train not cancelled, just a bit late. Hopefully trains are back to normal
now.

Interesting times in India

There were demonstrations and road blocks in Haryana state, just west of Delhi, but we were in Rajasthan where all seemed quiet. So we headed to the abandoned town of Fatehpur Sikri, just over the border in Uttar Pradesh 20km back towards Agra. Buses on strike so took a shared taxi. Fatehpur Sikri was amazing and was the first place we came across loads of foreign tourists. Stopped for lunch then tried to get back to Bharatpur but the road was blocked after about 10km. A kind truck driver tried to get us through but we had to go back. Sat in the hotel where we had lunched and it turned out that the owner was a friend of Tarun and Arun where we were staying.  So later in the evening when the road was still blocked they agreed that we'd stay overnight (no bags, clothes, toothbrush even) and try again in the morning.

Try we did and the owner picked up an Indian couple who spoke English who were also trying to get to Bharatpur and drove us to the road block. Along the way we passed loads of lorries and a few coaches full of tourists who had obviously been stuck there overnight. With our new Indian friends we walked about 1km along the blocked road past groups of unfriendly- looking protesters and eventually got met by Arun in his car. What a relief!

We had a train booked out at 4pm but we learned in the morning that it was cancelled as protesters had blocked the railway line. Only chance was a possible train back to Agra at 5pm. So we went to get some money but no ATM would work - panic! Apparently the district magistrate had ordered the internet closed. But an hour later we struck lucky and emptied a cash machine. Back to the station at 3pm to see if the 5 o'clock would leave. Still no decision by 6pm when an enterprising taxi driver offered to run the blockade and take us to Agra (80km) for an exorbitant sum.  We agreed, otherwise could have been stuck for days.

A 3-hour white-knuckle ride between parked or moving lorries, along the verges, dodging other vehicles brought us to Agra Cantt railway station. Off to the ticket office to see when the next train left for Sawai Madopur - we had 10 minutes but the only space was in "general" - get a seat if you're lucky. We weren't so sat on the floor with the unwashed masses. Got into Sawai Madopur just before 3am but our hotel had saved our room. We slept, much relieved to be away from the troubles.

First days in India

The Air India flight was good and the e-visa worked, but the bank card didn't, even though we had told them. So had to call them, that worked, but then ran out of phone credit and the old credit card linked to the phone had expired. Full marks to Truphone help who took all the new details in a long and rambling call - free. Taxi from hotel was waiting outside although our email said wait inside, but then everything good.

Walked about a bit, accosted by sundry tuk-tuk drivers, misdirected to "official" tourist offices, found the real one, then had very late veggie lunch.

Walked over to Old Delhi next day to visit biggest mosque in India and then the Red Fort which was more of a palace and maltreated by the invading British.  All very interesting. Found another good lunch then hit the back alleys heading towards the river and Gandhi's cremation place. Finally gave in and took a cycle rickshaw back. Went for a beer in a bar with an Indian rock band who were good.

Did New Delhi next day, the Lutyens/Baker designed official buildings, bought a carpet, did National Museum and when head was full had a great Chinese meal in Khan market area where you could eat anything but Indian. Humayun's tomb where 160 Mughal bodies - emperors, wives, children - are buried rounded off the day. Maybe time for another beer!

Maybe the beer wasn't such a good idea. First we had a problem with a 500 rupee (£5) note; it was all we had taken but they refused it as it had a crease down the middle. We were accompanied back to our hotel where we handed over another. Then the beer disagreed with Judy. Have seen her worse!

Next morning were taken around a huge Sikh temple by our Sikh taxi driver. Fascinating mix of Hindu and Muslim, and only 2% of Indians. We get a different impression in the UK. Took the train to Agra in " sleeper " class which is where most Indians travel; padded benches, no air- con just open windows. Fortunately Judy could stretch out across a 3-seater bench.

And then it all fell apart. We had booked a tuk-tuk for 6:30am for an early view of the Taj Mahal, but Judy had terrible diarrhoea and vomiting during the night so all cancelled. The guys in our hotel (the Tourist Rest House) were brilliant, helpful and sympathetic. Went to find antibiotics and antiemetic and rehydration powder. We had train booked at 6pm to move on to Bharatpur, fortunately not too far away, and a home stay booked for 3 nights.

Train left 20mins early but we had plenty of time and travelled in more luxurious A/C Chair class. Bharatpur is next to the Keoladeo National Park which is reputedly India's best birdwatching spot. The drugs had worked for Judy so we spent the morning there with our naturalist guide from the Kiran Guest House and saw lots of birds, especially water fowl, and the occasional antelope and jackal. Chilled out in the afternoon then strolled about 2km into town. En route, children wanted to try a few words of English and we were the only Europeans in town. Lots of stares but felt entirely safe.

The vast majority of tourists here (including Delhi and Agra) are Indian. We often get asked if they can have their photos taken with us. Interesting!