Visitors and Venice

Nicky, Glyn, Bryony and Morgan came for their first visit at the end of September.  It was great to see them here en famille as the last time Nicky was here was to help Chris after Judy fell off her ladder back in June 2012.  Anyway, did a few touristy bits which is one of the good things about having visitors, including a visit to a deer and boar farm.  The weather was kind except the first day when there was an event in the village, but we did manage to eat!

The second week in October saw Chris in Cardiff as he'd been invited for a couple of days' work.  Enjoyable though it was, we are finding that bits of work get in the way of more important things so that is definitely the last!

Then our friend Keith arrived for a few days.  He and Julia had helped us with the house a couple of times, first starting the external insulation and then felling trees.  No work this time - just eating, drinking and a bit of "aimless meandering" around the Gers.  More chances to play tourist.

La Flamme d'Armagnac was the weekend of 19/20 November so it was noses to the grindstone.  The programme below gives you an idea.

So we helped mark the two walking circuits on the Wednesday, put out tables on Thursday, Chris helped mark the cycling circuit on Friday morning and we set the tables on Friday night.  Saturday saw Judy as back marker for the shorter walk while Chris was the "lanterne rouge" for the cyclists.  The evening saw us helping to serve a 5-course meal to 550 people.  Finished the clearing up at 3:30 in the morning.  Sunday lunch was only 3 courses for 250 people!  Then sleep.

Anyway, as we hadn't been on holiday for ages(?!?) we spotted a cheap flight to Venice at the end of November.  Chris had never been and Judy was there longer ago than she would admit.  So we rented an apartment about 100m from the Rialto Bridge so we could walk everywhere and had a generally great time, especially as there weren't many tourists.  As well as all the touristy things, on the first night we managed to get into the opening night of a jazz festival at the university.  The music was a bit "experimental" at times but good, and the apero afterwards made up for the weird bits of music - and all for free.  The next night we paid for a super concert of Vivaldi's "Four Seasons" in a Baroque church - brilliant!

Off to the UK for Xmas and other parties.

Cycling and walking the Pyrenees

Chris is slowly working his way through the departments of France, the cycle-touring challenge is to visit six specific sites in each.  Last week it was the turn of the Hautes Pyrenees.  The plan was no more than 50km and one major climb per day, so that would be six days, staying in gites d'etape where possible.  Judy went walking with friend Nancy for four days but stayed in a bit more comfort.  Chris packed the minimum into a saddle-bag and a bar-bag and Judy dropped him in the south of the Gers, just over the border from the Hautes Pyrenees.  Then it was:
Day 1: 59km and 830m of climb via the chateau of Mauvezin;

Day 2: 45km almost all up climbing 1570m to Lac d'Oredon at 1900m;

 Day 3: Back down for 30 of yesterday's kms then up over the Col d'Aspin giving 58Km and 960m of climbing;

 Day 4: 36km climbing 1360m up and over the Col du Tourmalet to Luz-St Saveur;

Day 5: a gentle 40km to Gavarnie and back climbing 820m;
Day 6: 38km and 1200m of climb to Pont d'Espagne then back to Cauerets;

 Day 7: the gentle descent to Lourdes where Judy picked him up.

Meanwhile Judy and Nancy did the tourist bit and lots of walking, including a visit to the Col d'Aspin but the day after Chris.

So that's the group of departments for Gascony done, more next year.

Another hard summer

Yes, it's fete season again, and we managed to eat meals in two different villages both Saturday and Sunday at the start of June - good job we'd been training!  Then Judy's mum and youngest sister came to stay for a few days; mixed weather but that was all to the good as it wasn't too hot.

Then came the disaster of Brexit and we'd arranged an evening with the locals which wasn't as jolly as it might have been.  Nearly 40 people turned up, only four not French.  We had told everyone not to bring anything, but would they listen?  We were inundated with gifts and had a very touching card saying how welcome we were despite the referendum!

Anyway, as we'll no longer be EU citizens we won't have the automatic right to live here so we went to the prefecture to apply for a "titre de sejour".  If it's approved - which could take months - then we should get a permanent one as we've already been here 5 years.

We headed for the beach for a week at the beginning of July before Montreal's events started. We cooked duck for the first medieval evening in mid-July, went to a couple of superb concerts (one ballet from Paris, one full orchestra from Toulouse) in local towns then seemed to spend a lot of time eating and playing the local skittles game.

One of the walkers from Condom arranged a small group visit for a theatrical spectacle at Gavarnie in the Pyrenees, with two days of walking.  When we said we'd go he immediately asked us to lead the walks, so we had to spend a few days reccy-ing the walks before doing it for real.

The real thing went well and we came back for the fete in Montreal where we cooked moules-frites the Saturday night, then more frites and bits Sunday mid-day.  The next medieval followed on the Tuesday and we cooked 400 confit de canard - a record we think!

Judy was in a team of skittlers who qualified for the national chamionship, so we had to go to the Aveyron for a weekend.  Other teams from Lauraet had qualified too so they organised a coach and accommodation.  The weather on the day was foul - rain, rain and rain - and that was the only day we'd seen rain for a while.  Judy's team didn't make it through the heats to the main competition but they also run a competition for the non-qualifiers on the day and her team came second!  So more partying.  Next day we came back via a visit to the Millau viaduct and a very protracted lunch!

It's serious drought here so we're trying to keep the garden alive and the afternoons are so hot we retire to our super-insulated house.  The house is looking good, sits well within the plot and we finally got around to making a photo-book of the build. 

Off to another meal tonight!

Chris is 65!

So we stayed with Nicky, Bryony and Morgan until the last minute as we had booked a holiday to celebrate Chris' 65th birthday on 23rd May.  Just over 24 hours at home then on the plane to our luxury, all-inclusive stay in the Dominican Republic.  Not usually our sort of thing but turned out to be excellent, would definitely do it again.  Weather good - 30 degrees in the day, 25 at night, mix of sunshine and clouds so we didn't burn.  Always something to do, great choice of restaurants and just very relaxing.

Now back home for the foreseeable future and open for visitors.  Judy's mother and youngest sister are coming 14-18 June but otherwise...

Baby Morgan

We came to North Wales on 22nd April as Nicky's baby was due on 2nd May.  He finally arrived on 13th, 11 days late, by Caesarean section.  Named Morgan, he and Nicky came home on 15th.  All well, but Glyn still away.  We go back home on 18th, then away again on 21st!  

Anyway, here are some pics of Morgan (and Nicky and Bryony).

Just born

All together

What's for dinner?

What do I do with it?

Last few days in Oz

So our two months away is nearly over. Have spent the last three weeks installing the new kitchen for Donna and Jacko, including removing the old one and repairing the damage, redecorating and installing a new window. All done now, just in time.

Went up to Airlie Beach - full of backpackers and other tourists so felt quite at home - where we saw the sand-dragon. Then great lunch at Dingo Beach where lots of houses for sale.

Plane early Tuesday to arrive back late Wednesday. Doesn't time fly.

Last few days

Three hours on the bus south to Jaipur, the "pink city". Hotel turned out to be only a few hundred metres from the bus station, but in a quiet leafy area. Went to have a quick peek at Jaipur, then shower, then very cheap meal. Playing tourist properly tomorrow.

Everybody comes to Jaipur to see the ladies' palace, the Hawa Mahal, with its beautiful facade and the City Palace, still partly occupied by the current maharaja. Both lived up to expectations and took most of the day. Not many tourists: people say that numbers of foreign tourists have nearly halved over the past 5 years. Chris had haircut and we both had a head massage.

On local buses to Amber Fort in the morning, passing the palace and all the tourists we climbed the elephant track to the top to get lovely views. Lazy afternoon before we take train to Agra tomorrow.

Picked up from Agra Fort station then dumped bags at guest house; went back to see the fort later! Up early next morning to visit the Taj Mahal - absolutely fabulous. Peaceful because so huge despite the tourists, has to be most beautiful building in the world. A super place to finish. All pics on J's camera, will post from Oz. Off to Delhi this afternoon, planes to Singapore, Brisbane, Mackay tomorrow. Here ends our vegetarian alcohol-free odyssey to India.

In the desert

Arrived Jaisalmer just before midnight and were met at station, taken to our hotel and given an upgrade: beautiful carved stone room in old building inside the fort. Jaisalmer is all yellow sandstone with lots of carvings on buildings and the Jain temples. Because it's so lovely it's also very touristy and at times seems like a huge souvenir shop. But a great place miles from anywhere on the edge of the Thar desert. Will try to get a long way north-east tomorrow, so 6am start.

A long but successful day on sundry buses: Jaisalmer to Bikaner (7h), then on to Sikar (5h) then the last local bus to Nawalgarh. And the bus you want out never leaves from the station you arrive at - perverse! But people were very helpful, making sure we got to the right place. Anyway, we made it and for  the princely sum of £10 for the two of us. Now ensconced in a traditional hut at the Shekhawati Guest House where we have been very well fed.

Came to this region (Shekhawati) to see the havelis - Persian for "wind house" because designed for ventilation. Built by rich merchants on the Silk Road they tried to outdo each other over the years. Most are now gently decaying, some restored, some just preserved. Anyway, stunning.

Next day our hosts suggested that we go to Lohargal which we think they described as a quiet temple and pool up in some hills about 20km south. When we arrived it was manic: hundreds of people bathing in the pool and having a great time. Apparently it was a festival day. But talking to a local seller he said people came from all over India and it was busy every day. So we say and watched a while, visited the Sun Temple then tried to find a quiet shady spot to eat our snack lunch. No sooner has we settled down than the front door opened and we had a long conversation with the brother who spoke good English while his brother and sister joined in from time to time. They brought us chairs and tea - great hospitality. Off to Jaipur in the morning.

Getting hot in India

It was Chris's turn for the Delhi belly on our last night in Udaipur, but managed to get up for the 8am bus to Jodhpur and survive 6 hours on the road. Our homestay turned out well, right in the old town under the walls of the fort.

Jodhpur fort is supposed to be the most impressive in Rajasthan and it is fantastic, certainly the best yet. Stuck up on a huge sandstone slab it's both forbidding from the outside and luxurious on the inside with great views over the old "blue town". About 37 degrees today.

Went for a tour of some local villages, particularly the "Bichnoi", 15th century tree huggers. Some well-off, some very poor. Tried to help our driver advertise his homestay better. Bought a hand-printed tablecloth.

Caught local bus to Osian about 60km north to visit yet more temples, very impressive again. Back for big late lunch before 6 o'clock train to Jaisalmer.

Pics Udaipur

Got it right now.

Lovely Udaipur

Udaipur sits along a couple of lakes and there are great views. It's quite touristy which means lots of places to eat!

Arrived early on the train that wasn't cancelled and got a tuk-tuk with Salim who turned out to be helpful and not quoting silly prices. So we booked him for day 2 but went walkabout for the first day. Found the tourist office who probably never see a tourist but got a good map and a bit of advice. Bought some clothes, visited a temple on way back then meal overlooking lake. Decided to stay an extra day.

Next day took in the views, visited a temple and royal tombs, the princess's pleasure garden, the city palace and a few other things before dining in luxury for a nice change.

Had car and driver to visit the huge Kumbhalgarh fort and the Jain temple at Ranakpur which has amazing carvings, but all pics on Judy's camera. Great day trip.

Fourth day caught local bus 20km to Ecklingji temple which was great but no photos allowed. Great thali on way back and bought a couple of miniature paintings which seem to be a local speciality.

Off to Jodhpur by bus tomorrow early.

More Chittaurgarh pic

Too big for a single post

More peaceful now

The only reason for going to Sawai Madopur is to visit the Ranthambhore
Tiger Reserve an amazing rugged area protected for a small number of wild
tigers. It's supposed to have the best chance of seeing a tiger in the wild
but the chances are still only about 1 in 5. We weren't lucky but had a
great 3 hours in the jungle.

Train out at 05:25 next morning but another day, another cancellation. No
trains to our destination at Chittaurgarh but one part way at Kota. Again
no reservation so "general" ticket but managed to grab two bunks. Paid a
fortune to taxi the rest but reached our luxury stay at the Pamina Haveli,
had shower, superb lunch and siesta. The Haveli is actually within the old
fort, way above the town. Short stroll around, already impressed, will do
more tomorrow.

Chittaurgarh is superb: a huge plateau about 5km by 1km surrounded by
battlements which enclose a collection of palaces in various states of ruin
but nearly all visitable and lots of intricately-carved temples, along with
sundry towers and lakes. We hired two bikes and did it all. Saw the weekly
sound and light show in the main palace, had a great evening meal then to
bed before catching the 06:20 train to Udaipur.

Train not cancelled, just a bit late. Hopefully trains are back to normal
now.

Interesting times in India

There were demonstrations and road blocks in Haryana state, just west of Delhi, but we were in Rajasthan where all seemed quiet. So we headed to the abandoned town of Fatehpur Sikri, just over the border in Uttar Pradesh 20km back towards Agra. Buses on strike so took a shared taxi. Fatehpur Sikri was amazing and was the first place we came across loads of foreign tourists. Stopped for lunch then tried to get back to Bharatpur but the road was blocked after about 10km. A kind truck driver tried to get us through but we had to go back. Sat in the hotel where we had lunched and it turned out that the owner was a friend of Tarun and Arun where we were staying.  So later in the evening when the road was still blocked they agreed that we'd stay overnight (no bags, clothes, toothbrush even) and try again in the morning.

Try we did and the owner picked up an Indian couple who spoke English who were also trying to get to Bharatpur and drove us to the road block. Along the way we passed loads of lorries and a few coaches full of tourists who had obviously been stuck there overnight. With our new Indian friends we walked about 1km along the blocked road past groups of unfriendly- looking protesters and eventually got met by Arun in his car. What a relief!

We had a train booked out at 4pm but we learned in the morning that it was cancelled as protesters had blocked the railway line. Only chance was a possible train back to Agra at 5pm. So we went to get some money but no ATM would work - panic! Apparently the district magistrate had ordered the internet closed. But an hour later we struck lucky and emptied a cash machine. Back to the station at 3pm to see if the 5 o'clock would leave. Still no decision by 6pm when an enterprising taxi driver offered to run the blockade and take us to Agra (80km) for an exorbitant sum.  We agreed, otherwise could have been stuck for days.

A 3-hour white-knuckle ride between parked or moving lorries, along the verges, dodging other vehicles brought us to Agra Cantt railway station. Off to the ticket office to see when the next train left for Sawai Madopur - we had 10 minutes but the only space was in "general" - get a seat if you're lucky. We weren't so sat on the floor with the unwashed masses. Got into Sawai Madopur just before 3am but our hotel had saved our room. We slept, much relieved to be away from the troubles.

First days in India

The Air India flight was good and the e-visa worked, but the bank card didn't, even though we had told them. So had to call them, that worked, but then ran out of phone credit and the old credit card linked to the phone had expired. Full marks to Truphone help who took all the new details in a long and rambling call - free. Taxi from hotel was waiting outside although our email said wait inside, but then everything good.

Walked about a bit, accosted by sundry tuk-tuk drivers, misdirected to "official" tourist offices, found the real one, then had very late veggie lunch.

Walked over to Old Delhi next day to visit biggest mosque in India and then the Red Fort which was more of a palace and maltreated by the invading British.  All very interesting. Found another good lunch then hit the back alleys heading towards the river and Gandhi's cremation place. Finally gave in and took a cycle rickshaw back. Went for a beer in a bar with an Indian rock band who were good.

Did New Delhi next day, the Lutyens/Baker designed official buildings, bought a carpet, did National Museum and when head was full had a great Chinese meal in Khan market area where you could eat anything but Indian. Humayun's tomb where 160 Mughal bodies - emperors, wives, children - are buried rounded off the day. Maybe time for another beer!

Maybe the beer wasn't such a good idea. First we had a problem with a 500 rupee (£5) note; it was all we had taken but they refused it as it had a crease down the middle. We were accompanied back to our hotel where we handed over another. Then the beer disagreed with Judy. Have seen her worse!

Next morning were taken around a huge Sikh temple by our Sikh taxi driver. Fascinating mix of Hindu and Muslim, and only 2% of Indians. We get a different impression in the UK. Took the train to Agra in " sleeper " class which is where most Indians travel; padded benches, no air- con just open windows. Fortunately Judy could stretch out across a 3-seater bench.

And then it all fell apart. We had booked a tuk-tuk for 6:30am for an early view of the Taj Mahal, but Judy had terrible diarrhoea and vomiting during the night so all cancelled. The guys in our hotel (the Tourist Rest House) were brilliant, helpful and sympathetic. Went to find antibiotics and antiemetic and rehydration powder. We had train booked at 6pm to move on to Bharatpur, fortunately not too far away, and a home stay booked for 3 nights.

Train left 20mins early but we had plenty of time and travelled in more luxurious A/C Chair class. Bharatpur is next to the Keoladeo National Park which is reputedly India's best birdwatching spot. The drugs had worked for Judy so we spent the morning there with our naturalist guide from the Kiran Guest House and saw lots of birds, especially water fowl, and the occasional antelope and jackal. Chilled out in the afternoon then strolled about 2km into town. En route, children wanted to try a few words of English and we were the only Europeans in town. Lots of stares but felt entirely safe.

The vast majority of tourists here (including Delhi and Agra) are Indian. We often get asked if they can have their photos taken with us. Interesting!