Five years of retirement

It came as a bit of a surprise to Chris to realise that he retired on 1st August 2010.  A lot of water under the bridge since then - travelling, building a house, learning to live in France, etc.  Anyway, thought it would be a good time for a quick update.

After the car died and was taken to the local Citroen dealer, we went to the Alps for a week with the walking group and the Citroen workers took annual leave!  The Alps were superb, our first time there.  Good weather during the day then storms in the evenings, but cracking walking.

We had one day after our return before Judy went to the UK to visit parents, daughter and grand-daughter, still without car.  But then the garage phoned - not sure if the water pump had ruined the cam-belt or vice-versa but both needed replacing, and happily there was no collateral damage.  Expensive, but ...

Chris took advantage of Judy's absence to cycle around the department of the Landes, which most people think is flat, but not half of it.  Anyway, loaded the bike with camping gear, did 3 days on the bike, 1 day on the beach, 2 days on the bike again and a total of 360km.  Really good.

Early July turned stinking hot, up to 40 degrees at times and we hit the beach for five days in between fetes.  We spent a day playing traditional Gascon games as well as our usual quilles (skittles) which was all played in great spirit - we didn't come last but very nearly!  Then another day of quilles - helping prepare in the morning, playing in the afternoon then eating and drinking (naturally) all evening.  We played with a guy who was ex-champion of France (but as they only play in this area...) and played quite well for a change - we even made it to the final.  But then we crumbled so came second, but the winners gave us the cup "on merit" they said - I think it was because we were Brits, the only ones who try to play their games.

The next week was duck-cooking at our medieval fair and we've done a bit of culture as well.  First the (world-famous) orchestra from the Capitol of Toulouse then the dancers from the Opera of Paris - both really excellent - interspersed with a bit of trad jazz in a local hamlet.

In between we've built the shed from raw materials - this is for Judy to store all her gardening bits and pieces, Chris has the barn for bikes and tools etc. 

Have to add a ramp, put a coat of render on and track down some old tiles for the roof.  Then I'll have to find something else to keep him busy.

Saturday was a hard cycle ride with the Condomois followed by a boar feast, Sunday a walk followed by paella, then it's another medieval on Tuesday and then the fete at Montreal.  Never a dull moment!  Couldn't do all this if I was still working.  So, retired for 5 years and still not 65!  And, he's lost a stone!  How can that happen - I certainly haven't, quite the reverse!

It's still hot here, not the temperatures of early July fortunately, but hot enough, so we're praying for some storms tonight to water our poor plants.

The final step - literally

So the 29th May saw the last screw put in the last step.  We'd been building the terracing in front of the house, complete with access for the disabled, and then planned to put steps outside the west door.  But we were three planks short so the step had to wait a bit, but finally got done, so that's the house genuinely finished, inside and out.  We said five years but it's been four.  Hooray!!!

Meanwhile life has been "interesting".  Judy had two dental implants on 20th May and was on preventative antibiotics so couldn't drink on Chris's birthday; then Chris had one implant on 26th May so also couldn't drink on Judy's birthday, but she managed to relax well.

We had a tree felled because it was shading our solar hot-water panels so had to log it and move it, but the view is now much nicer.  We have planted two other trees but in better positions.

 Note the difference from the previous photo.

The weather hasn't been brilliant here so we haven't been dining outside every day which is just as well because a pair of black redstarts took over the terrace and successfully reared a brood.

And just when we were feeling happy, the car died!  We were in Condom for our French lesson, came back to the car and it made an awful noise then wouldn't start.  Called the breakdown (happily covered by the insurance) who replaced the battery, then started the car.  Not a good sound - he thought it was blocked oil passages stopping the oil from circulating.  So it's now with the Citroen dealer in Condom and we're waiting to hear.  Shame because it's been really great for nearly 13 years.  Fortunately, our friend Nancy came to the rescue and fetched us from Condom, then lent us a car.  She also bought us some champagne and a cooler to celebrate everything and came round to help us drink it.  A good friend to have!

Anyway, this may be the last blog for some time as the house is complete - just the garden shed to build, the garden to sort, the barn to wire up and ...
perhaps just the occasional holiday to take!

House now complete (inside!)

We had a good trip back from Guatemala to North Wales, then had a nightmare drive through UK traffic, stopping in Birmingham to visit J,s nephew and family, arriving at the ferry with minutes to spare.  It was a relaxing drive back through France where it was nose to the grindstone almost immediately.  We had plaster-boarded the utility room before we left in December so it was out with the paint brushes then laying the floor tiles, then installing IKEA units, doing the plumbing, hiding all the services and finally bringing the washing machine up from the barn where it had worked for over three years. 

But it didn't like its new surroundings and refused to work in the house.  We hunted for a new one but - just like magic - it decided that all was well and has been happily washing and spinning ever since.

Meanwhile we seemed to be out a lot, first dinner with friends, then a fancy dress in town (sorry, no pics) then a big pig meal and then the rugby club fest.  March was just mad for events.

We decided to get rid of our old settees and add some furniture to one wall so another two trips to IKEA in Toulouse to order the new settees then pick up them and other stuff (there's always other stuff when one goes to IKEA!).

Went away in the caravan for a long Easter weekend - great walking country north of us and south of the Lot.  Weather had been iffy all the time we were back but the sun shone all Easter day and has been shining ever since.

Installed the IKEA stuff when we got back so everything inside the house is done - celebration time!

This last weekend was the walking rally (a quiz on foot) at Condom: great weather, great company and a great lunch afterwards.

Now we've got a lot of little things to do (like tax returns for France and the UK, shifting a huge pile of logs, etc), but the next big step is to do the decking at the front of the house.  We're also waiting for planning permission to put up a garden shed - one of the disadvantages of living within the conservation zone of Montreal.

Today (13th April) was the first day we had our evening meal outside, so we think the good weather is here at last.  Everyone says how late spring is this year.  Roll on summer!

Goodbye Guatemala

Decided to have a couple of days away from the tourist spots so headed up into the western highlands. On the 6am "school run" ferry to Pana then shuttle up the main highway towards Mexico where we were picked up by a taxi to take us to Huehuetenango. Got a local bus to Todos Santos way up in the mountains, arriving early afternoon. All the men wear local traditional costume here, not just the women. A town of about 2000 people, quite isolated by the mountains and in a valley at 2500 metres.

Found a nice room and contacted a local guide. Brother ran the electrical shop and explained that about half the population were working in the USA and sending money home to support family here. He'd been to university in Marseille! Booked guided walk for the morning. This used to be a dry town but there are bars now, got accosted by local drunk while waiting to meet guide! Good coffee and cakes.

Breakfast was coffee, cakes and orange juice for 80p. Then while waiting for bus with guide a Danish couple arrived and decided to join us. They were interesting all day. Started at 3000 metres (not feet!) and climbed to La Torre at 3887m the highest non-volcanic point in Central America. Then a very long steep descent to the sacred Mayan site of La Maceta among amazing limestone formations too big to photograph. Had turned cold and cloudy by our return, so banana cake and coffee went down well. Brilliant day.

Local bus back to Huehue next morning where we came down the final descent to the strains of Queen's "I want to break free". Then another crowded bus to Quetzaltenango (usually known as Xela) the second largest town in Guatemala. Found a room, shop, somewhere to eat - strange to be back in a city. Lights went out mid-meal so had candle-lit dinner and dark walk back.

Next morning managed to check in for our flight from Madrid to Liverpool, then walked the streets of Xela watching local life. Passed an amazing church then found Rodrigo Diaz' art museum, the only one in Xela. He has exhibited and sold around the world, especially in europe. After guided tour of Guatemalan art which he said gets no support - what a difference from Cuba - he ended up giving us a small painting and a hand-painted and signed t-shirt. Amazing experience! More wandering and watching, then the best coffee and bought a book written by the only(?) Mayan author.

Off to the hot springs at Fuentes Georginas where we cooked slowly until the clouds rolled in, teamed up with a Belgian lady away for 4 years. Whole area has hot baths but there are lots of volcanoes! Then market (fruit and veg as very fertile here) at Zunil and ornate church before return.

Safely back to Antigua via local buses after a recent spread on bus attacks in the paper. Shopping done quickly, bus booked to airport tomorrow. That's it, and thank you Guatemala.

At the lake

We left Coban in pouring rain so we were really lucky yesterday. Long trip to Lake Atitlan which is really beautiful. Staying in the hippy heaven village of San Marcos to relax and explore the area.

Boat to Pana then bus to the market at Sololá which was huge and where we bought stuff. Back to Pana where we bought more stuff. Rucsac full!
Heard all about the Chocolate Spirit on the boat on the way back.

Over to San Pedro which is the other main hub and party town. Booked a ticket out then strolled to the textile town of San Juan where we were shown how it's all done and Judy bought a scarf which is a week's work for a weaver. Back to rain coming through our (unglazed) skylight so emergency work by the hotel. It's the first rain for four months!

Walked along the lake via Tzununa and Jaibolito to Santa Cruz, about 3 hours, the last two over steep and rocky path. Lovely! On the road again tomorrow.

A couple of old ruins...

... Which was rather how we felt on January 31st after another long minibus ride heading north - we seem to get the oldest buses with the fastest drivers. Two rattly hours back to Coban where brakes needed checking, then about 3 hours downhill (with brakes) eventually reaching the island town of Flores just before sunset. Great roof terrace makes up for the very basic room. Amazing dawn chorus.

We've come all the way up here for the Mayan ruins and spent the first afternoon at Yaxhe, more difficult to get at and less exposed but magical in the jungle. Next day on the 4:30am bus to huge and famous Tikal. Misty and atmospheric until the sun appeared about 10am, then sunshine to explore until about 2pm when we were "ruined" and treated ourselves to an all-day Guatemalan breakfast. Brilliant day!

Headed south retracing our route over the numerous Guatemalan speed humps as far as Coban which is a major centre with very little to attract tourists so very interesting. Very fertile up here in the mountains so lots of fresh fruit and veg. Very tasty dinner and nice hotel.

They say it rains 13 months of the year in Coban but the sun shone on us. Caught 30p bus ride to Chamelco where we strolled around the market (wonderful food colours) and then out into the countryside which was well cultivated. Coffee and cake then back to Coban where Chris had the best haircut ever. Great day!

And now Guatemala

January 25th: a day of airports - Havana, Panama, Guatemala - but all went well. Night in an airport hotel before heading to Antigua, avoiding Guatemala City. Hotel has amazing Christmas model town! J still suffering a bit.

In Antigua about 1hr from the big city, a lovely old colonial town, a bit like Trinidad in Cuba, with cobbled streets but very buzzy. Lots of local life as well as tourists - this seems to be the place where travel is organised. Locals far outweigh tourists and it's very colourful compared to Cuba - really a different world. Shops, phone, wi-fi, back in the 21st century.

Trying to decide how to play our time here.

Woke very early to clear skies and managed to book on the 9am hike up the Pacaya volcano, still active. Great 3-hour hike with good guide. Amazing flower like a hen's foot. Cooked marshmallows and bananas in the lava, still hot from eruption in 2010. Ash, fumes and steam coming from the top. J bought lava earrings.
May have next few days planned.

Antigua has some lovely buildings and lots if ruins, but here they are mostly the result of the 1773 earthquake rather than neglect. Don't build amid volcanoes!

A long day heading north on a not-too-comfy minibus, first through the traffic in Guatemala City, then into more mountains, suddenly arriving in the cloud-forest around Coban. Very green, lush and cultivated but Dartmoor drizzle! Two hours more to Lanquin, last 12km over dirt roads - well, compacted rubble - and the idyllic El Retiro lodge where we dined well and slept in a loft beneath the palm thatch. Next day went to what we had come to see, the amazing pools at Semuc Panchey. Beautiful, great swim. The pools sit above an underground river and have a separate stream. Booked bus on to Flores.

Heading back to Havana

Another great museum before taking the (late) bus to Santa Clara, otherwise known as Che Guevara City. Arrived late and got taken around a few casas that were full then struck lucky with a English-speaking couple. Went looking for cheap beer and food but options very limited here, unlike other places. After Heinekens in a pizza bar (hmmm...) found the best cocktails so ended up dining off cocktails and hamburgers!

Next day changed some CUC's into MN, visited the lovely theatre, then strolled towards the place where Che and 18 guerrillas ambushed a train carrying over 400 Batista troops and won, starting the liberation of Santa Clara and signaling the beginning of the end for the Batista regime, which fell very quickly. Wonderful statue of him further on then headed for the hill from which he ran the assault. Hijacked by a Chinese-Cuban lady who took us to her house, told us about her family and showed us photos of her trips to Europe when she was a tour guide - quite poignant. Back to the centre where we realised we had walked in the wrong direction last night; now some restaurants to choose from. Stopped to have a beer then beard trimmed (Chris) and nails done (Judy).

Next day decidedly "off piste". Stopped at Colon where no tourists go. Nowhere to stay so asked group on street if they knew anywhere. Eventually one offered room and another offered meals, both in very poor houses. Bathroom was toilet and two buckets; one to flush, one to wash. I think we saw real Cuba! Visited art workshop and bought painting, not many 'sights' here. Arranged taxi for morning as bus prices are fixed between terminals so if you get off halfway (which we had) you have to pay twice - bizarre.

So on to Matanzas only 100km from Havana where we found a luxurious casa for a couple of nights. Went hunting for sights, cheap beer and food. Not a lot of choice of any, but another gently crumbling Cuban town built around a huge bay which is apparently Cuba's largest port. Good meal then ultra-modern cocktail bar. Judy ill in night.

So Chris went walkabout for the day to the old fort (quite expensive) with a very limited slavery museum and then the restored church up on the hill (cheap and great views) passing the Abraham Lincoln community centre on the way. Judy on starvation diet.

Shared a 1957 Bel Air taxi to Havana, as Viazul bus station way out and taxi in expensive. Arrived on heavy rain but wandered out to buy 3MN cakes. Trying to neither over- nor under-spend our last CUC's. Had a nice but expensive Cuban-Swedish fusion meal just up the road. Sea very rough.

Heading slowly east

Back to Cienfuegos for the short bus ride to Trinidad, possibly the most visited town in Cuba. It's old - mostly 19th century - but largely untouched. It's a must and very pretty and in a great position. Super museum.

Wandered around, climbed the hill for great views. Passed a huge bar dedicated to the Beatles! Had a good meal with super cocktails. The festival is in full swing but hours between bands. Caught the Afro-carribean Morris dancers. Locals vastly outnumber tourists when the buses have left.

And then it got "interesting"! The Viazul bus didn't arrive leaving about 20 of us stranded in Trinidad. Fortunately two other Spanish men were going to Sancti Spiritus so we got our money back and they negotiated a good deal for a taxi - only 1$ more than the bus. Relief!! A bit off the tourist trail here but found a place to stay, but no English spoken. Even our own sitting room. Wanted to go out to some mountains but no organised trip. Lots of hand-waving and a friend might get us there. Anyway, a nice town, lovely buildings around the square. Cheapest meal.

Friend came up trumps, even taking us up the dirt track to the ecological reserve in his 1957 Dodge. Twelve km hike with guide - prettiest we've ever had - and a swim in the pool below the waterfall. A grand day out!

Early bus next day to Ciega de Avila, rather off the tourist trail but allegedly with a great museum and interesting park. Arrived in the rain, got a bici-taxi to a reasonable casa, booked a ticket back out, but no buses going to where we fancied, so booked for Santa Clara. Cheap eats in a surprisingly flash restaurant.

Sunday morning and everyone is out on the streets. Brilliant museum, then to huge city park. Described as best in Cuba could be best anywhere, lots of families having fun. Old steam engines, scrap sculptures, old aircraft as restaurant. Ate there on the evening. Town and park still buzzing at night .

Moneda National is the way here so very cheap everywhere except casas, but 25$ B&B for two is not bad with excellent brekky. Only town we've had to query restaurant bills, though.

Further south

Cienfuegos was quite a surprise, loads of shops, plenty of tourists but well diluted by the locals. Wide streets, very open, some lovely buildings. But things closed early. Found a place to stay for 25$ with breakfast. Looked as if eating out was going to be more expensive than before but away from the centre had mojitos, main courses, salad and 'chips' for 12$ (for two) with 60's music - Cienfuegos is growing on us!

Changed money, did shopping, queued for bus tickets then hunted the locals' boat to the fort. It left early as it was full. Fort very interesting. Had the best ever paella topped by a lobster tail for 5$.

Then three days at the beach at Rancho Luna, about 12km south, in a quirky casa. Went in a horse-drawn carriage to see the local flamingos, then cocktails and fish suppers on the beach.

Escape from Havana

Three hours on the bus west of Havana is the beautiful town of Viñales. Set amid limestone cliffs it's a small farming town - mostly tobacco - but very popular with tourists. Very rural and quite well-to-do compared with Havana poverty.

Had booked 3 nights at a B&B recommended by friends: definitely top of the range. But almost every house here has a room to rent. First change of plan, decided to stay longer! Went for a 3-hour stroll along dirt tracks to Finca Raol and a cave tunnel through the mountain. Eventually found cheap bar.

Next day hired the last two (worst two?) bikes in Viñales and cycled through lovely countryside for most of the day. Judy overheated but survived.
Interesting to see that horses are used widely for transport, sometimes even oxen.

Booked the bus tour to Cayo Jutias 60km north - white sand, blue sea, green palms: ideal! Both bars out of beer when we got back.

Went for an 8km walk, no signs, poor info, no real map - got back after 5 hours. A cloudy day fortunately.

Off to Cienfuegos at 7am.

Into Cuba

Walked to our 38-euro hotel in Madrid and went out to eat. At midnight Judy started throwing up and went on till 2am. Checking in just after 4am the KLM staff thought she looked so ill they ordered her a wheelchair to get to the gate. Same help for the transfer at Schipol - KLM were really good. She was eating again by Cuba, and survived Havana airport immigration, luggage claim and the long queue to change money - cash only here.

After an interesting taxi ride our B&B in Havana Centro was expecting us (relief) and after a cool shower we wandered the streets. Amazing! Lots gently decaying which is part of the charm. Very little traffic, mostly old American cars in various states of repair. Failed to stay up long enough to see in 2015 but it was there the next day.

In old Havana we wandered the streets and looked at the mix of decaying and restored. New Year's Day is a national holiday so no museums etc open, but a fascinating day especially the experimental graphics workshop where we were nearly tempted to buy. Lunched in a shady square with live music in the background.

Next day walked over to Vedado which is "downtown" and where the Cuban state is run from. Less interesting but fascinating in a communist way.

Saturday saw everything open again so we got into the cathedral and did the Havana city museum. A good lunch with accompanying musicians (excellent) and dancers. Nearly bought a painting but by the time we got back it had been sold. Moving on to Vinales in the morning.

Into Cuba

We walked to our airport hotel in Madrid - a good 38 euros - but about midnight Judy started throwing up for 2 hours. We had to check-in soon after 4am and when the KLM staff saw how ill she looked they ordered a wheelchair to get her to the gate. Repeat between planes at Schipol, KLM were really good. But she was OK by Cuba and survived immigration, luggage claim and the long queue to change money - cash only here.

Got to our B&B in Habana Centro where we were expected, had a shower then risked Habana in the dark. Amazing! A totally different world, mostly decaying. After a beer we found our way back but didn't quite manage to stay awake to see in 2015.

Next morni