Luang Namtha is supposed to be the Eco-trekking centre of Laos and there are lots of places offering choices. They all do different things so that tourists and their money get spread around the villages. So a bit of leg-work involved in finding the options.
We chose Ethnic Travel (not the same as Hanoi!) because while we were dithering in their office 3 people came back and said what a great time they'd just had. So, next morning after buying our supplies at the market (well, the guide did) we headed into the hills. We'd decided that villages and people were the main focus for this trek. We had read that there are still some "authentic" experiences to be had but details were quite vague.
Our first overnight stop in Ngue Bong after about 3-4 hours walking was at a village of 8 families mostly from the Yao ethnic group in the heart of the forest. No water, no toilet, no electricity, lots of pigs and chickens, and very shy children. After a quick look around and an invitation into other homes we took a shower with a scoop from the stream. Dinner was cooked on a one-burner wood fire. Bed was a sleeping platform shared with our guide - only just room for three. Don't think we got the sanitised version this time. Last foreigners came about 6 weeks ago.
Next morning our guide decided he wanted one of the puppies from where we had stayed, so we set off with a 2-month old puppy that walked most of the way. A 4-5 hour walk through the forest (shady) to another village Phu Luang on a steep hillside. People here were Hmong and seemed a bit better off.
Villagers had built a separate hut for visitors, fortunately in this heat no metal roof which some of the others had. Also the one squat toilet with scoop flush in the village, but not sure where it drained. Had a scoop shower in the one trickle of water watched by sundry kids. This time shared 6-man sleeping platform. Next morning had musical interlude with village men but given our lack of success with european instruments, didn't stand much chance with these. And Hmong women seem determined to try and sell you "handicrafts" wherever you are.
Third day was very long - we had been warned. Mostly in shady forest, but long steep bits. Sun appeared after lunch and we got very hot. Stopped briefly in a Lantan village Namla of 7 families - they were very friendly and wore traditional dress. A long hot walk then back to our last village then tuk-tuk back to town.
Our three top tips if we did this again would be:
Take some simple indestructible toys (ball, frisbee, etc) to help you play with the kids and to leave behind;
Try to be in the villages Friday, Saturday, Sunday because the school-age kids (8 plus) go to the city school all week and stay there;
Given the huge number of ethnic groups, the Hmong (women) were our least favourite.
Enjoyed a hot shower and meal that wasn't all rice. Bed early and the earth moved - we felt the earthquake in Myanmar and Thailand. Everyone came out of their rooms and then the electricity went off.
Next day on bikes around the Namtha valley, a bit flat area surrounded by hills. What a contrast from the mountain villages. Everyone has water for irrigation and fresh veg, whereas in the mountains no water for anything - a real hungry gap. Visited stupas and temples and got escorted onto the right track by a very nice girl in one village. Watched women spinning local cotton and weaving cloth in another - lots of Lao women were also sitting around, as usual, so one working, ten not is quite normal.
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