Leaving Laos

Hired a motorbike after our last not-disastrous experience and followed the Nam Tha downriver on a dirt road. Thick jungle on alongside the river. Passed a few villages and when we stopped in one to look for something to eat the only English-speaker, a 15-year old boy, gave us a guided tour. Found a lovely spot for a picnic by the river, but didn't have a picnic! Normally carry food with us but find plenty of food en route - this time the villages were too small. Still, a great ride and the chocolate pancakes back in Luang Namtha tasted even better!

Moved 60km west to a small town Vieng Phouka passing through some lovely countryside. Stayed in a guesthouse with very basic bamboo huts with lean-to loo! Went trekking next day and visited one small cave and one enormous one. Nowhere to hire bikes or motorbikes here, just a few guesthouses and places to eat and two trekking operators. But the countryside around is a great mix of limestone mountains, jungle and rice fields, some bright green, others waiting to be planted. Weather has been cool and grey for a few days with some rain. Preparing us for home?

Another 120km west to Houay Xay on the Mekong and a border town with Thailand. The road wound through the mountains with spectacular views of forest-clad hills in places. We passed villages, the remains of a rolled-over coach and, at the bottom of one long descent, a lorry and trailer on its side. Found a cheap hotel with hot water and enjoyed a long shower. Bought some Thai baht and a bus ticket to Chiang Mai in 2 days time, just before our visa runs out.

Failed to rent a motorbike so passed a gentle day strolling paths and tracks. Getting brighter and warmer (the weather, that is). Across the Mekong to Thailand tomorrow, the beginning of the end of our odessy.