Ometepe

Is a two-volcano island, very peaceful but seems to be popular with French-Canadians!  Motorbikes, horses and bullock carts are the main means of transport.

Did very little the first day, relaxed by the pool and organised  onward travel, time will tell if it has worked.

Day 2 we hired a motorbike and visited the nature reserve at Charco Verde 

then lazed on the beach near Santa Cruz.

Next day, still on the moto we visited Altagracia where we were the only tourists.  Small but interesting museum.  

Lazed and swam at Playa Mango which was popular with the slightly well-to-do backpackers.

Long day travelling tomorrow.

Léon

Is lovely, less well restored than Granada so a bit more character, more real life, less touristy, apart from the young people who come for "volcano boarding" like snowboarding but hotter!

Has a huge cathedral, allegedly the biggest in Central America, which dominates the main square.  

And a fantastic art gallery with paintings from Europe since the 16th century 

and a huge collection of more modern including Picasso, Mondrian, Andy Warhol, Damien Hirst, etc, etc 

distributed amongst six old houses still with their patios.  

A real surprise.  

Caught a local bus to the beach at Las Peñitas where the sea was rough and the beach quiet.  

Then the Museum of the Revolution, interesting take on what was represented in the world press in the 1970's as terrorism, here they are heroes.

Off to a volcanic island tomorrow, near the border with Costa Rica.

Miraflor pics 2

J's camera 

From Miraflor 1

C's camera 

Off the beaten track

Caught the bus, 

half an hour up the main road then two hours to do 30km up gravel tracks, fording a river on the way.  It was Saturday and the bus was packed with people who had been to Estelí for the week's shopping.

Got to our cabin at Finca "Lindos Ojos" 

with detached kitchen 

and bought some food from the farm. Spent three days eating potatoes, carrots, eggs and cheese as that was all they had.  Fortunately brought a huge pineapple with us.

But it was peaceful and very scenic.  Had a long chat with the very interesting owner, and also her neighbour.  We took a guided walk and rode horses.

Will post other pics separately.

Today the bus journey in reverse then a minibus to Léon where we are now baking hot but the hotel does have a pool!

Estelí

Still in the mountains in the town of Estelí which was a hotbed of resistance in the late 1970's.  On the Pan-American highway so lots of traffic going past, but in the centre it's quieter, apart from the buses, cars, motorbikes and people! 

Rented a taxi for the morning to take us up to a protected area, past the Estanzuela waterfall where we were the only visitors, 

up to the hamlet of Garnacha at about 1400 metres with fantastic views, allegedly over three countries.  

Coffee in a lovely spot on the way back.  

Walked in to visit the local museum, a real eclectic mix from pre-Columbian to revolution.  The older part of town is lovely but probably rebuilt after Somosa attacked and destroyed it.

If we can find the right bus, off for a farm stay for three nights.  You just get used to a place then leave!

In the hills

Took an expensive taxi to Managua then a very cheap bus to Matagalpa.  

We left the bus station looking for a coffee and stopped in a bakery to ask where.  "Here" they said and sat us down at a table behind the counter.  We ordered two coffees and two donuts then the son asked where we were staying.  On the edge of town up a steep hill.  I'll take you, he said.  Then they refused to be paid for anything!  Some people are just so kind.

We're in a "house" at the Aguali biological station (https://www.aguali.net/) for two nights.  Very peaceful, very ecological, very basic!  

Walked through the forest for a couple of hours this morning and failed to get to the top of the mountain (Cerro Apante), the paths got smaller and smaller.  But up here it's cooler, only about 20 degrees this morning!  

Relaxing on the terrace for the rest of the day.  Moving on tomorrow.

Into Nicaragua

Got here a day late after Judy ate something that disagreed with her.  Buses worked well but the border crossing was painfully slow.  Now in Granada which is lovely, a very different feeling from Costa Rica.  Colourful, relaxed, but still hot.  

We did a walking tour which involved not a lot of walking but a lot of history! 

The afternoon was a boat trip with a couple from Vermont, on huge Lake Nicaragua, all nicely laid-back. 

Think we might need to come back! 

Heading north into the mountains tomorrow.

Lazy days

Have stopped for two days in Uvita, it's been pool, beach, pool, beach...  Great.  Even had time to think about where to go next.

Tomorrow back to San José to dump the hire car, next day a long bus ride to Liberia in the north of Costa Rica, and the following day another long bus ride across the border into Nicaragua.  Will post again from Granada.

More Corcovado pics

From our guide 

More pics

Photos from J's phone

Corcovado

May have overdone the walking yesterday - decided to walk up into the jungle hills behind where we are staying. But it was hot and very steep.  

Passed the Bolita hostel (off grid and clothes optional, apparently, see https://bolita.org/index.html ) where the hammocks were good for a rest on the way back.  About 9km and 1000 metres of up and down took us all day.  Saw iguana, lizards, frog and spider monkeys.

Alarm at 04:30 this morning to drive to Puerto Jiminez for our visit to the Corcovado national park, the jewel in the crown of southern Costa Rica.  

It's amazing what the guides can spot so saw lots of stuff including tapir, anteater and 3 types of monkey. Most pics on other camera, sorry.

Off for a couple of quiet days on the beach tomorrow.

More pics to follow.

Costa Rica part 4

We came to San Vito to visit the Wilson Botanic Gardens and we spent the whole day there, walking the trails.  

On top of the observation tower we were entertained by a pair of swallow-tailed kites and on the ground by agoutis, amongst lots of other things.  

And because San Vito was founded by Italian settlers there was a great Italian restaurant for the evening!

Today back on the road to the Corcovado national park where we have a wonderful bungalow in a bit of tropical paradise in a place called Dos Brasos, not far from Puerto Jimenez on the Pacific coast.

Sat in the pool and watched the birds, great end to the day.

Great time in Costa Rica

Except that we had to set the alarm for 04:40 yesterday morning to meet our guide for searching for quetzals.  And as we were at 2800 metres, it was only 7 degrees!  

We saw one male resplendent quetzal within sight of the track, then a couple with a nest in a hole in a tree.  What a treat, they're now a rarity.  So busy taking photos with my big camera that only have this one through the guide's telescope. 

A lazy day, the odd walk in the forest and some more bird photos, mostly from the café's terrace.

Long-ish drive today, down from the mountains to the El General valley, to San Isidro.  On to Buenos Aires?!  Lunch (Chinese) followed by great ice cream.  

Now in (near) the small town of San Vito, not far from the border with Panama.  Sitting outside our cabin in a torrential tropical downpour.  All good!!

Second bit of Costa Rica

Tropical rain to start but we had breakfast on the terrace and watched loads of keen cyclists toiling up the mountain before we headed off to see the Orosi valley.  The mirador was packed with locals picnicking, even a wedding party, but great views. 

The old church in Orosi is lovely.  

A steep and muddy walk in Tapati National Park followed, impressive plants and flowers.

It was a Sunday and there were people picnicking and barbecuing everywhere, even by the roadside!

Sunny day Monday, drove to the Lankester Botanical Gardens near Cartago, fantastic orchids house and many other plants and flowers.  

Then disaster, had a puncture.  Spare wheel and jack in the boot, undid the 5 bolts but couldn't remove the wheel!  Took ages for Alamo assistance to arrive but they couldn't remove the wheel either so repaired the tyre at the roadside, very strange!  

Then to Cartago to find food, cash and petrol. Finally got to our stay in the mountains at San Gerardo de Dota, good job it's a 4WD given the state of the roads!