Decided to have a couple of days away from the tourist spots so headed up into the western highlands. On the 6am "school run" ferry to Pana then shuttle up the main highway towards Mexico where we were picked up by a taxi to take us to Huehuetenango. Got a local bus to Todos Santos way up in the mountains, arriving early afternoon. All the men wear local traditional costume here, not just the women. A town of about 2000 people, quite isolated by the mountains and in a valley at 2500 metres.
Found a nice room and contacted a local guide. Brother ran the electrical shop and explained that about half the population were working in the USA and sending money home to support family here. He'd been to university in Marseille! Booked guided walk for the morning. This used to be a dry town but there are bars now, got accosted by local drunk while waiting to meet guide! Good coffee and cakes.
Breakfast was coffee, cakes and orange juice for 80p. Then while waiting for bus with guide a Danish couple arrived and decided to join us. They were interesting all day. Started at 3000 metres (not feet!) and climbed to La Torre at 3887m the highest non-volcanic point in Central America. Then a very long steep descent to the sacred Mayan site of La Maceta among amazing limestone formations too big to photograph. Had turned cold and cloudy by our return, so banana cake and coffee went down well. Brilliant day.
Local bus back to Huehue next morning where we came down the final descent to the strains of Queen's "I want to break free". Then another crowded bus to Quetzaltenango (usually known as Xela) the second largest town in Guatemala. Found a room, shop, somewhere to eat - strange to be back in a city. Lights went out mid-meal so had candle-lit dinner and dark walk back.
Next morning managed to check in for our flight from Madrid to Liverpool, then walked the streets of Xela watching local life. Passed an amazing church then found Rodrigo Diaz' art museum, the only one in Xela. He has exhibited and sold around the world, especially in europe. After guided tour of Guatemalan art which he said gets no support - what a difference from Cuba - he ended up giving us a small painting and a hand-painted and signed t-shirt. Amazing experience! More wandering and watching, then the best coffee and bought a book written by the only(?) Mayan author.
Off to the hot springs at Fuentes Georginas where we cooked slowly until the clouds rolled in, teamed up with a Belgian lady away for 4 years. Whole area has hot baths but there are lots of volcanoes! Then market (fruit and veg as very fertile here) at Zunil and ornate church before return.
Safely back to Antigua via local buses after a recent spread on bus attacks in the paper. Shopping done quickly, bus booked to airport tomorrow. That's it, and thank you Guatemala.
We left Coban in pouring rain so we were really lucky yesterday. Long trip to Lake Atitlan which is really beautiful. Staying in the hippy heaven village of San Marcos to relax and explore the area.
Boat to Pana then bus to the market at Sololá which was huge and where we bought stuff. Back to Pana where we bought more stuff. Rucsac full!
Heard all about the Chocolate Spirit on the boat on the way back.
Over to San Pedro which is the other main hub and party town. Booked a ticket out then strolled to the textile town of San Juan where we were shown how it's all done and Judy bought a scarf which is a week's work for a weaver. Back to rain coming through our (unglazed) skylight so emergency work by the hotel. It's the first rain for four months!
Walked along the lake via Tzununa and Jaibolito to Santa Cruz, about 3 hours, the last two over steep and rocky path. Lovely! On the road again tomorrow.
... Which was rather how we felt on January 31st after another long minibus ride heading north - we seem to get the oldest buses with the fastest drivers. Two rattly hours back to Coban where brakes needed checking, then about 3 hours downhill (with brakes) eventually reaching the island town of Flores just before sunset. Great roof terrace makes up for the very basic room. Amazing dawn chorus.
We've come all the way up here for the Mayan ruins and spent the first afternoon at Yaxhe, more difficult to get at and less exposed but magical in the jungle. Next day on the 4:30am bus to huge and famous Tikal. Misty and atmospheric until the sun appeared about 10am, then sunshine to explore until about 2pm when we were "ruined" and treated ourselves to an all-day Guatemalan breakfast. Brilliant day!
Headed south retracing our route over the numerous Guatemalan speed humps as far as Coban which is a major centre with very little to attract tourists so very interesting. Very fertile up here in the mountains so lots of fresh fruit and veg. Very tasty dinner and nice hotel.
They say it rains 13 months of the year in Coban but the sun shone on us. Caught 30p bus ride to Chamelco where we strolled around the market (wonderful food colours) and then out into the countryside which was well cultivated. Coffee and cake then back to Coban where Chris had the best haircut ever. Great day!
January 25th: a day of airports - Havana, Panama, Guatemala - but all went well. Night in an airport hotel before heading to Antigua, avoiding Guatemala City. Hotel has amazing Christmas model town! J still suffering a bit.
In Antigua about 1hr from the big city, a lovely old colonial town, a bit like Trinidad in Cuba, with cobbled streets but very buzzy. Lots of local life as well as tourists - this seems to be the place where travel is organised. Locals far outweigh tourists and it's very colourful compared to Cuba - really a different world. Shops, phone, wi-fi, back in the 21st century.
Trying to decide how to play our time here.
Woke very early to clear skies and managed to book on the 9am hike up the Pacaya volcano, still active. Great 3-hour hike with good guide. Amazing flower like a hen's foot. Cooked marshmallows and bananas in the lava, still hot from eruption in 2010. Ash, fumes and steam coming from the top. J bought lava earrings.
May have next few days planned.
Antigua has some lovely buildings and lots if ruins, but here they are mostly the result of the 1773 earthquake rather than neglect. Don't build amid volcanoes!
A long day heading north on a not-too-comfy minibus, first through the traffic in Guatemala City, then into more mountains, suddenly arriving in the cloud-forest around Coban. Very green, lush and cultivated but Dartmoor drizzle! Two hours more to Lanquin, last 12km over dirt roads - well, compacted rubble - and the idyllic El Retiro lodge where we dined well and slept in a loft beneath the palm thatch. Next day went to what we had come to see, the amazing pools at Semuc Panchey. Beautiful, great swim. The pools sit above an underground river and have a separate stream. Booked bus on to Flores.
