Another great museum before taking the (late) bus to Santa Clara, otherwise known as Che Guevara City. Arrived late and got taken around a few casas that were full then struck lucky with a English-speaking couple. Went looking for cheap beer and food but options very limited here, unlike other places. After Heinekens in a pizza bar (hmmm...) found the best cocktails so ended up dining off cocktails and hamburgers!
Next day changed some CUC's into MN, visited the lovely theatre, then strolled towards the place where Che and 18 guerrillas ambushed a train carrying over 400 Batista troops and won, starting the liberation of Santa Clara and signaling the beginning of the end for the Batista regime, which fell very quickly. Wonderful statue of him further on then headed for the hill from which he ran the assault. Hijacked by a Chinese-Cuban lady who took us to her house, told us about her family and showed us photos of her trips to Europe when she was a tour guide - quite poignant. Back to the centre where we realised we had walked in the wrong direction last night; now some restaurants to choose from. Stopped to have a beer then beard trimmed (Chris) and nails done (Judy).
Next day decidedly "off piste". Stopped at Colon where no tourists go. Nowhere to stay so asked group on street if they knew anywhere. Eventually one offered room and another offered meals, both in very poor houses. Bathroom was toilet and two buckets; one to flush, one to wash. I think we saw real Cuba! Visited art workshop and bought painting, not many 'sights' here. Arranged taxi for morning as bus prices are fixed between terminals so if you get off halfway (which we had) you have to pay twice - bizarre.
So on to Matanzas only 100km from Havana where we found a luxurious casa for a couple of nights. Went hunting for sights, cheap beer and food. Not a lot of choice of any, but another gently crumbling Cuban town built around a huge bay which is apparently Cuba's largest port. Good meal then ultra-modern cocktail bar. Judy ill in night.
So Chris went walkabout for the day to the old fort (quite expensive) with a very limited slavery museum and then the restored church up on the hill (cheap and great views) passing the Abraham Lincoln community centre on the way. Judy on starvation diet.
Shared a 1957 Bel Air taxi to Havana, as Viazul bus station way out and taxi in expensive. Arrived on heavy rain but wandered out to buy 3MN cakes. Trying to neither over- nor under-spend our last CUC's. Had a nice but expensive Cuban-Swedish fusion meal just up the road. Sea very rough.
Back to Cienfuegos for the short bus ride to Trinidad, possibly the most visited town in Cuba. It's old - mostly 19th century - but largely untouched. It's a must and very pretty and in a great position. Super museum.
Wandered around, climbed the hill for great views. Passed a huge bar dedicated to the Beatles! Had a good meal with super cocktails. The festival is in full swing but hours between bands. Caught the Afro-carribean Morris dancers. Locals vastly outnumber tourists when the buses have left.
And then it got "interesting"! The Viazul bus didn't arrive leaving about 20 of us stranded in Trinidad. Fortunately two other Spanish men were going to Sancti Spiritus so we got our money back and they negotiated a good deal for a taxi - only 1$ more than the bus. Relief!! A bit off the tourist trail here but found a place to stay, but no English spoken. Even our own sitting room. Wanted to go out to some mountains but no organised trip. Lots of hand-waving and a friend might get us there. Anyway, a nice town, lovely buildings around the square. Cheapest meal.
Friend came up trumps, even taking us up the dirt track to the ecological reserve in his 1957 Dodge. Twelve km hike with guide - prettiest we've ever had - and a swim in the pool below the waterfall. A grand day out!
Early bus next day to Ciega de Avila, rather off the tourist trail but allegedly with a great museum and interesting park. Arrived in the rain, got a bici-taxi to a reasonable casa, booked a ticket back out, but no buses going to where we fancied, so booked for Santa Clara. Cheap eats in a surprisingly flash restaurant.
Sunday morning and everyone is out on the streets. Brilliant museum, then to huge city park. Described as best in Cuba could be best anywhere, lots of families having fun. Old steam engines, scrap sculptures, old aircraft as restaurant. Ate there on the evening. Town and park still buzzing at night .
Moneda National is the way here so very cheap everywhere except casas, but 25$ B&B for two is not bad with excellent brekky. Only town we've had to query restaurant bills, though.
Cienfuegos was quite a surprise, loads of shops, plenty of tourists but well diluted by the locals. Wide streets, very open, some lovely buildings. But things closed early. Found a place to stay for 25$ with breakfast. Looked as if eating out was going to be more expensive than before but away from the centre had mojitos, main courses, salad and 'chips' for 12$ (for two) with 60's music - Cienfuegos is growing on us!
Changed money, did shopping, queued for bus tickets then hunted the locals' boat to the fort. It left early as it was full. Fort very interesting. Had the best ever paella topped by a lobster tail for 5$.
Then three days at the beach at Rancho Luna, about 12km south, in a quirky casa. Went in a horse-drawn carriage to see the local flamingos, then cocktails and fish suppers on the beach.
Three hours on the bus west of Havana is the beautiful town of Viñales. Set amid limestone cliffs it's a small farming town - mostly tobacco - but very popular with tourists. Very rural and quite well-to-do compared with Havana poverty.
Had booked 3 nights at a B&B recommended by friends: definitely top of the range. But almost every house here has a room to rent. First change of plan, decided to stay longer! Went for a 3-hour stroll along dirt tracks to Finca Raol and a cave tunnel through the mountain. Eventually found cheap bar.
Next day hired the last two (worst two?) bikes in Viñales and cycled through lovely countryside for most of the day. Judy overheated but survived.
Interesting to see that horses are used widely for transport, sometimes even oxen.
Booked the bus tour to Cayo Jutias 60km north - white sand, blue sea, green palms: ideal! Both bars out of beer when we got back.
Went for an 8km walk, no signs, poor info, no real map - got back after 5 hours. A cloudy day fortunately.
Off to Cienfuegos at 7am.
Walked to our 38-euro hotel in Madrid and went out to eat. At midnight Judy started throwing up and went on till 2am. Checking in just after 4am the KLM staff thought she looked so ill they ordered her a wheelchair to get to the gate. Same help for the transfer at Schipol - KLM were really good. She was eating again by Cuba, and survived Havana airport immigration, luggage claim and the long queue to change money - cash only here.
After an interesting taxi ride our B&B in Havana Centro was expecting us (relief) and after a cool shower we wandered the streets. Amazing! Lots gently decaying which is part of the charm. Very little traffic, mostly old American cars in various states of repair. Failed to stay up long enough to see in 2015 but it was there the next day.
In old Havana we wandered the streets and looked at the mix of decaying and restored. New Year's Day is a national holiday so no museums etc open, but a fascinating day especially the experimental graphics workshop where we were nearly tempted to buy. Lunched in a shady square with live music in the background.
Next day walked over to Vedado which is "downtown" and where the Cuban state is run from. Less interesting but fascinating in a communist way.
Saturday saw everything open again so we got into the cathedral and did the Havana city museum. A good lunch with accompanying musicians (excellent) and dancers. Nearly bought a painting but by the time we got back it had been sold. Moving on to Vinales in the morning.
We walked to our airport hotel in Madrid - a good 38 euros - but about midnight Judy started throwing up for 2 hours. We had to check-in soon after 4am and when the KLM staff saw how ill she looked they ordered a wheelchair to get her to the gate. Repeat between planes at Schipol, KLM were really good. But she was OK by Cuba and survived immigration, luggage claim and the long queue to change money - cash only here.
Got to our B&B in Habana Centro where we were expected, had a shower then risked Habana in the dark. Amazing! A totally different world, mostly decaying. After a beer we found our way back but didn't quite manage to stay awake to see in 2015.
Next morni
