Last few days

Left Dilijan in the rain and arrived in the rain in Yerevan.  Next day was glorious sunshine and we spent it finding our bearings, and spent a lot of time in the History Museum of Armenia.  Amazing prehistoric culture here, we discovered, including the oldest (7000 years) leather shoe.

Then a challenge to get to one monastery above the Kasagh Gorge (Saghmosavan), walk 7km to a second (Hovhannavank) and then get back.  Had to hitch-hike a couple of sections but people were very helpful.  Because it was Saturday there were weddings at the churches so a few interesting photos for Judy - who doesn't like a wedding? Even saw Mount Ararat in the distance.

Sunday was spent at the Cascades - a huge art exhibition space going up the hill, the Cafesjian Centre for the Arts. Later the museum of a wacky film maker and collage artist.

Monday to Geghard, our last monastery, which is mostly carved out of the cliff rather than built on it, maybe the best yet!  They are all so different. Decided to miss the much-restored Parthenon-style temple at Garni, enough is enough!!

Tomorrow start the journey back - overnight train from Yerevan to Tbilisi, fly to Istanbul and spend the night in a hotel then fly to Toulouse.  Home Thursday night.

Northern Armenia

Stayed in Vanadzor as a base for visiting the Debed canyon monasteries. When we got off the bus the town looked awful - dirty, semi-derelict, what had we done?  But then our hosts invited us to their Saturday night barbecue party, drove us through the town which away from the bus station was actually quite nice!  Spent a very jolly evening with a dozen Armenians, Russians and someone from Kazakhstan.  Could they pack away the alcohol!!

Next day rented a taxi for the day, fantastic weather, beautiful old buildings, gorgeous scenery, just great.  Cathedral at Akhtala with stunning frescoes, 

UNESCO classified monasteries at Haghpat 

and Sanahin, 

then a ruined monastery at Kobayr that we had to climb to.

Rain the next day but walked a fair bit around Vanadzor, stopping for the best tea and cake so far.

Now in Dilijan, a popular mountain holiday centre with a huge national park which has lots of walking trails.  Walked through woods with wonderful autumn colours.  Dinner in a yurt!

Then another monastery (Goshavank) and a great walk to Gosh Lake along a very well marked section of the TransCaucasus trail.

Yerevan, capital of Armenia, tomorrow.  Last stop before home.  It's gone very quickly.

Into Armenia

It turned very cold when we left Borjomi, maximum 10 degrees rather than 20!  Took bus to Akhaltsikhe to see the sights there, and also because it looked as if we could enter Armenia without having to go all the way back to Tbilisi.  Visited the much restored castle which was better than the guide book suggested.  Did our usual slow tourism.  Went to a lovely monastery up in the hills the next day.  

Were a bit worried about the border crossing especially as we had Azerbaijan stamps in our passports.  Anyway, early bus to Ninotsminda the closest town to the border up a long mountain road, then taxi the last 20km.  No problem leaving Georgia then walked across to Armenia.  A few questions from the border guards who eventually took us at face value as tourists but wanted to know our itinerary in Armenia.  Fortunately had a two-night reservation in Gyumri, the nearest town in Armenia but then had to explain that we decided to move on or not from day to day.  They seemed surprised but accepted it in the end so only about 20 minutes of hassle before getting our stamps.  Hooray!

Then the problem of getting the 50km to Gyumri.  A few lorries, hardly any cars, no buses and no taxis waiting, and all at 2000m of altitude.  Then a Georgian taxi appeared and we paid him to move us on, phew.  Were in our apartment in Gyumri just after midday, much to our surprise.

Gyumri is the second biggest city in Armenia and was virtually destroyed by an earthquake in 1988.  But now it's buzzing, everything is low-rise and the sun was out!  Saw a few sights, wandered the streets and got invited into a huge theatre for a jazz orchestra concert.  Everyone had tickets but we got pushed through by the receptionist for free.  And what a great concert.

Next day a museum of art by two local sisters who travelled the world, and a visit to our first Armenian monastery, on local buses of course.

Moving on tomorrow.

Southern Georgia

Telavi to Gori was bus, taxi, bus via Tbilisi.  Looking for our apartment in Gori we asked someone where exactly it was and the "someone" turned out to be the son of the owners!  Gori is the home of Stalin but we avoided the Stalin museum.  

Next day took a local bus to Uplistsikhe (Google it for more info), an amazing cave and rock city dating from over 2000 years ago.  Some of the later "rooms" had quite ornate carving.  Back to Gori where we dined well in a, for us, upmarket restaurant 15 euros each!

Early start for the bus to Borjomi, a real holiday centre in the mountains.  Cable car up, walk along the plateau and then down to the hot (well, warm) sulfur spring swimming pools.  Had our swimmers and towels so did the pools along with lots of others as it was a sunny Sunday afternoon.

Came here to walk in the national park, got a permit and then a tough (3 hours up, 2 down but very steep) circuit through woods with autumn colours.  Rained near the end which necessitated hot soup in local café.

Back in Georgia

 We were a bit worried about the border crossing so took a taxi, 2 hours and less than £20.  The border was very easy, out of Azerbaijan, walk across the bridge and into Georgia.  Because the border is effectively closed there were hundreds of lorries waiting to enter Azerbaijan.  Another taxi 5km to our stay in Lagodekhi where we wanted to walk in the national park.  It rained all morning but we had a lovely walk in the woods later.

Our bus to Telavi didn't arrive so we half bussed, half taxied to our surprisingly comfortable guest house (complete with wine tasting).  More rain in the morning but visited the castle and museum in the afternoon. When the clouds cleared there was fresh snow on the mountains opposite.

Next day car and driver (he got booked by the police for his crazy driving!) to visit other historical sites, the cathedral at Alaverdi, then the church and tower at Gremi finishing up at the monastery at Nekreseli.  All very interesting and educational.

Hopefully off to Gori via Tbilisi tomorrow.

Last days in Azerbaijan

Headed NW towards Sheki but decided to break the journey for a night in Ismayilli, a town that was easier to get into than out of!

Pic of a bizarre lunch in Ismayilli with the locals.

But next day headed to Seki and had local people wanting to help us all the way - one of the joys of independent travel. 

There's a UNESCO classified palace in the very old bit and a couple of caravanserai - very picturesque.  

Next day walked to a ruined fortress which was almost inaccessible and an "Albanian" church in Kish (dating pre Roman).  Albania is a very old name for this part of the Caucasus, nothing to do with present-day Albania!  Very interesting visit.

Leaving tomorrow morning for the border with Georgia.

Last Baku pics

 Petroglyphs at Qubestan, mud volcanoes nearby and the flame towers lit up.  Leaving tomorrow.