Back to Chennai

Two lazy days in a 3-bedroom Raj-era villa (luxury), beautifully furnished, in upper Coonoor, which is surrounded by tea plantations, rounded off the trip to the highlands. Had a look at the botanic gardens which were lovely, found a good cafe and a good restaurant, did very little but eat, drink and read.  A good end before the dash for home.

Long bus ride down the mountain (again) to a surprisingly modern hotel in Coimbatore. Seven hours by train across Tamil Nadu and that's it, back in Chennai!

This has been a much more"Indian" experience than our trip to Rajasthan 3 years ago, largely because there is no real infrastructure for foreign tourists here so we had to do everything like the Indian tourists. And why not?!

Ooty

At 6am we were 3 on a scooter, us and our walking guide for the morning. But great walk, us the guide and two of his friends, one a multi- millionaire property developer. Great walk up a mountain ending with breakfast at the guide's house which was tasty but rather basic!

We did, of course, admire the children's school books.

Lay in bed this morning before a huge breakfast. Then bus to a lake and waterfall where we were much photographed by a large group of college girls studying Eng. Lit.  Got a lift back with three young guys from Chennai - we'd taken their photo for them earlier.

Moving a short way tomorrow to a hopefully luxury villa but without internet.

Nilgiri pics 2

Nilgiri pics 1

Nilgiri Mountain Railway

We'd read about the Nilgiri Mountain Railway which is one of the few remaining steam trains and which (for train buffs) climbs the steepest sections using the "Swiss rack" system. Anyway, not knowing when we would get to it, we couldn't book a ticket. So we arrived in Mettupalayam after two days without internet with nowhere to stay and no train tickets. Found a relatively clean hotel, had a great lunch then headed for the ticket office. No space on the train but we were first on the waiting list. A visit to the station-master at 5:30am confirmed that we did have seats on the only train at 7am. Hooray!

And what a journey, 5 hours to do less than 40km, train packed with Indian holiday-makers in party mode, regular stops for photos, tea and snacks - just great! Now ensconced in nice comfortable hotel in Ooty where it's cooler at 2400m.

Hard to believe we only have a week left.

Wild life?

We wanted to visit the Indira Gandhi Wildlife reserve but only had a bit of information from our Rough Guide and searching the internet just said go to the Wildlife Warden Office in Pollachi. So after a 3-hour white-knuckle bus ride down the mountain we found it. Very little information there as well, but yes, there was accommodation, there was a canteen and there was a bus, so off we went. The road was a nightmare and the bus packed to the seams and for a good part of the two hours there was a violent argument going on behind us.

But got a room (we're the only visitors here) in a very expensive basic hut, were told we couldn't go trekking but could go in a jeep and had supper in the "canteen". 

The early morning "jeep safari" was better than expected and back in time for breakfast. Thought we could walk the jeep track but got escorted back and told off for walking in the forest much to the amusement of all the 'boys'!

But it's very peaceful here, just jungle noises, no horns beeping so stayed another night. Hoping to get to another town not mentioned in the guide book tomorrow.

Up in the hills

It's 10-15 degrees cooler up here (2100m) at Kodaikanal in the Western Ghats. An old British hill station is now a holiday town for people from all over India who want to escape the heat. We have met people from Calcutta, Bangalore, Gujarat, Kerala etc.

The lake is 'kiss me quick' one end and beautifully peaceful the other.

Saturday we walked to Dolphin's Nose where there was no view because we were mostly up in the clouds, but then it rained in torrents for about 45 minutes - happily we were just outside a cafe. More torrential rain on the way back and sheltered in a shrine with a lady who prattled away in perfect English about the Tudors and bloody rain!

Sunday hired a guide (£2 per hour) for a great 5-hour trek through the hills. Learned a lot about illegal building development.

Going to try for a national wildlife reserve tomorrow, not sure how that'll work.

End of the temple trail

The temple at Madurai is huge, not especially high but massive, stone pillars, roof, towers, everything. It's the first one we've been to where all photos are banned and only the second where non-Hindus are not allowed inside the shrines. But the atmosphere...  

Our hotel is just outside the temple and we have a good view.

The old (16th century) palace is in a poor state, partly thanks to the grandson of the king who built it - he dismantled three-quarters of it to build another palace elsewhere!

The government is trying to ban plastic bags so lots of people are carrying "bags for life" which is good to see, but of course not everyone complies. Likewise with the public toilets, of which there are now lots!

Hardly any beggars here, Kumbakonam was unusual.

Very hot here so heading for the hills tomorrow.

The face(s) of India

Judy's favourite photo.

Really big temples phase 3

Here in Thanjavur they just call it "Big Temple" as it's the biggest of the four built in the 11-12th centuries. The first night was a festival with thousands of people, music and traditional dancing.  Next day quieter but equally impressive. Then went to the old palace which is rather run down but it has an amazing antique library and a museum of Chola carvings and bronzes from the 9th to 13th century. Spent longer there than expected.  Judy failed to buy sandals yet again!

One thing we find a bit wierd is that when you stop for a drink or a meal, you're expected to drink up or eat up and leave - it's not a time for relaxing - just the opposite from home.

Sunday in Kumbakonam

We planned a three-temple tour and thought the first might be difficult to get to, but no - one bus did it. It didn't get much of a mention in the book, but it was huge and packed. After doing the temple tour we followed the sound of music and got invited into a wedding which was just starting. Lots of photos of us, of them, of us with them, etc, including with the bride and groom.

Then walked 1km to another small temple where there was another ceremony, not quite sure what but ladies only. Judy had to do a bit of face-painting and was given a goody-bag for her troubles.

Amazing how different the welcomes can be. Very occasionally the temple staff can be grumpy but the ordinary people tend to be very open, wanting to show things, explain things and have their photos taken with us.

Really big temples phase 2

Heading further south to Kumbakonam there was more water in rivers and ponds so everything is a bit greener, almost tropical. But there's less and less in English so can't read the destination on the buses any longer. There also seem to be more beggars here, it hasn't been an issue before.

After three days in rather basic accommodation we're in a luxury (by Indian standards) hotel for three nights while we go more temple hopping.

We visited a couple of small temples in the evening, one 9th century so very simple but with nice carvings.  Then to the almost unpronounceable Gangaikondancholapuram which was totally different to anything else so far. It was the capital city of the Chola empire in the 11th century but only the temple survives. Tricky to get a bus back.

Sunday to Dahmasuram for another big one, but not high, just intricately carved. Spot the difference!

Another post more about Sunday.

Really big temples phase 1

The journey to Chidambaram passed through flat but heavily cultivated countryside, lots of sugarcane to start then rice paddies where there was more water for irrigation. 

Our homestay wasn't where the maps put it but some kind locals told us where it was. But before we could leave, one insisted that we came to rest in her home - when we got there it was a three-room apartment with no furniture, just mats to sleep on and a not very nice loo she insisted I use!

The temple was unbelievable, brightly painted outside and heavily carved on the inside: unfortunately photos not allowed inside. We followed some loud music and discovered a traditional dance display performed by young girls - an 8-year-old stole the show.

Went back the next morning to see it in a different light. The famous "1000 pillars hall" was closed for renovations but there were workers inside so we poked our noses in and after a bit they said OK, come in - so we did!

Start of the temple trail

For much of the 3-hour journey to Tiruvannamalai we were sitting on our rucksacks on a crowded bus, but the temple here was worth a bit of discomfort - huge towers, lots of carving, two big ponds. Only problem is that lots of Americans come to meditate in the world-famous ashram and give out dollars to beggars, but a dollar is worth 100 rupees and the normal gift is 10 rupees so people see a foreign tourist and expect dollars!

Next day up before dawn for a 15km pilgrimage around the mountain. Ended in a lovely small temple where we were made most welcome. Then the usual lunch and a very traditional cup of tea (chai).