Christmas at Calpe

We towed the caravan across the Pyrenees (well, went through) and spent the first night in windy Zaragoza then headed south of Valencia for three nights. Then got to Calpe easily and found the camping about 200 metres from our friend Anita. She had us all organised - walk, dinner, another dinner, Christmas lunch with her son and friends and family - hardly had to think for ourselves! A very different Christmas. Will head further south in a day or so.

Last three days

We had planned to spend some time in the Monti Pincentino regional park to the north-east of Salerno, well away from the hustle and bustle. Found a walk not far away but the road up was tiny and steep. It seems that we've come at the best time for the autumn colours. Spectacular scenery and beautiful colours all around.  A long walk but lots of up!

Next day was all rain so we toured in the car through more lovely places, but difficult to see at times. It had also turned very cold (5 degrees in the afternoon!) but there is a ski-station nearby and our apartment is at over 700 metres.

Cold and grey today but managed to walk in the mountains in the morning. Then the rain arrived. Back home tomorrow.

Vesuvius and Sorrento

Picked up our hire car and drove as far up Vesuvius as possible then walked the last three k's up to the crater. Fantastic views. Then to Sorrento to our B&B. Spent the next day walking around town - seemed quite English. Only problem so far is too much cake and pasta! Saturday on to Salerno via the Amalfi coast road pausing at Positano, Amalfi, Minori and a few other places. Fantastic views but glad it wasn't summer as there was enough traffic as it was.

Naples and Pompeii

So Judy was looking at the Toulouse airport website and found a cheap flight to Naples. A long weekend turned into a 10-day trip. We walked Naples for two days (one very wet!) then caught the train to Pompeii for a day. Off to Vesuvius and Sorrento tomorrow.

Last days in Myanmar

The usual tourist route from Inle Lake to Yangon is a 13-hour overnight bus ride. Didn't fancy that so went off-piste. Bus over the mountains, going the wrong way along a dual-carriageway at one point to overtake a string of slow lorries. Arrived at Thazi where we bought a train ticket for halfway. Were welcomed and fed in the Moonlight Guest House while waiting. Only ordinary class coaches but modern so smooth ride but hard seats. Slept well in hotel at Taungoo. Rode the slow train  upper class to Yangon next day in old coaches but comfy seats.

Trains may be slow but they run on time, there's no horn blowing and the rails are (generally) smoother than the roads.

Flight back tomorrow.

Inle trek pics 2

On the lake

Inle trek pics 1

Various

Kalaw pics

Cave and tea with Buddha.

Around Inle Lake

After the heat of Mandalay we headed south and east getting tangled up with a huge market at a temple before climbing up to the town of Kalaw at about 1300 metres. Cool and wooded, quite different from Hsipaw. A tourist town even for the better-off Burmese. Booked a two-day trek to Inle Lake. Then walked to a cave full of Buddhas being turned away from two roads by the army but got there in the end. Visited a bamboo Buddha where we were given green tea.

The trek was really good so it's not surprising that it's very popular. Easier terrain than at Hsipaw but longer days, 17km the first and 15km the second, followed by a one-and-a-half hour boat ride along the lake and up to Nyaungshwe.

Decided to miss the obligatory  boat tour as we found the boat very noisy, so hired bikes from the hotel and explored the eastern side of the lake, stopping at Maing Thauk for a stroll and a juice before heading further south passing several huge lakeside resorts. Eventually we took over a veranda in a resort which looked closed and had great views.

Next day headed south-west and found a great spot overlooking the lake. Gentle day, our last before heading to Yangon.

Hsipaw trek pics

Countryside and homestay

Train from Hsipaw

Inside and out

Pyin Oo Lwin pics

House and garden.

Shan state part 1

The bus journey from Mandalay to Hsipaw was slow and dusty at times, with roadworks and lots of heavy lorries as this is one of the main routes to China. Very mountainous with many hairpin bends with room for either a lorry going up or one going down, but not both ways!  Cheap hotel in town, booked a two-day trek then headed for a bar.

Walked to a local waterfall but it was only a trickle. The countryside was pretty with lots of small fields and well irrigated. A bit cooler here.

Trek was six hours up, quite hot at the end, but a lovely village homestay with great food but no electricity, only some solar panels and an army detachment 'protecting' the village. Four hours back down the next morning to a very welcome shower.

The train chugged and swayed slowly back towards Mandalay, crossing the famous Gokteik Viaduct then we got off to explore Pyin Oo Lwin for a day.

Pyin Oo Lwin was lovely, cool because at 1000 metres with a great botanic garden and old British buildings a bit like a decaying Home Counties. Then back for a night in Mandalay.

More Mandalay pics

Temples etc.

Mandalay Hill

Pics

The road to Mandalay

It was nearly 12 hours chugging up the Irrawaddy in an almost empty boat. Slower than a bus but a lot smoother!

Took bikes for two days to pedal around Mandalay which is nice and flat, except for Mandalay Hill, which we felt obliged to climb. Then more temples, including a super wooden monastery. 

Second day pedalled the back streets down to U Bein bridge, apparently the longest teak bridge in Asia. Spotted a temple and attached monastery and got given a guided tour by one of the four resident monks.

Since arriving in Myanmar the weather has been hot (35 degrees) so we've been tourists in the morning and lazy in the afternoon. Food and accommodation have been good and cheap - so far.

After conflicting reports of which parts are open, we're off to the hills north-east of Mandalay tomorrow, hopefully cooler than here. 

Extra pics Bagan

Artist and Mount Popa.

Amazing Bagan

Nine hours north by minibus wasn't as bad as expected. Had booked room in mid-range hotel but got given a suite so a bit of unexpected luxury for 4 nights.

Took electric motorbike to start visiting temples - about 2000 over an area of about 70 square kms so won't do them all. Did two days' worth, but impossible to describe, too much variety, in various states of decay or restoration, some beautifully decorated inside, all 11-13 century. Bought a small painting.

Day trip to Mount Popa today then very early start for expensive boat up the Irriwady to Mandalay tomorrow.

After our sixth lovely meal here should add that if you like spicy then this is the place to be - we seem to be eating our way around Myanmar!

Missing pic Pyay

Ancient stupa

Missing pic Yangon

The pagoda

First days in Myanmar

Two nice nights in Paris then flight to Bangkok. OK so far but then...

... connection to Yangon couldn't land, went elsewhere and eventually managed to land in Yangon 5 hours late.

Got escorted to our guesthouse which is fine, wandered into the centre dodging people and traffic, visited the Sule pagoda from which all distances are measured then in bed by 8pm. Slept the clock round.

Went walkabout, mostly around old colonial Yangon. Reminded us of Jakarta. Evening saw us at the Shwedagon pagoda, the biggest Buddhist temple in Myanmar. Brilliant!

Long slow bus north to Pyay a bit off the beaten track but halfway to Bagan. Cheap motel on edge of town but best meal in restaurant 5 minutes away. Not a lot of English spoken.

Hired motorbike to visit ancient city of Sri Ksetra which was huge but ended about 10th century. Three of the oldest stupas in Myanmar. Got asked for photos with a couple of families. Watched sun going down over the Irriwady.

Long bus ride to Bagan tomorrow.

Xmas, skis and now off again.

We spent Xmas with Nicky, Glyn, Bryony and Morgan.  Their house is making progress and we were installed in the new bedroom with en-suite shower-room.  No carpet when we arrived, but Nicky said it might come in a few days so wouldn't it be a good idea (for Judy) to finish the painting!  So it got painted and carpeted just in time.

Meanwhile, Chris's Christmas jigsaw puzzle was a full-size spiral staircase to install.  Not easy what with low ceilings, uneven floors etc.  So Glyn and Chris spent the best part of a week measuring, calculating and finally getting it in place the day before Christmas Eve.

The weather was kind, the dogs needed walking and a generally good time was had by all.  Then we headed to Devon to visit friends we hadn't seen for a long time and hot-bedded around for a week.  Thanks to all who looked after us with such hospitality.

January 5th was Judy's mother's 90th birthday.  Amazingly she played tennis in the morning then we headed off to a night of luxury in a country-house hotel.  Very nice and great food.

We stayed a few more days and the caught the ferry to St Malo which is our favourite as they load early so you can have a good meal on board, then chug across the channel arriving when it's getting light.  Got home to a house which was at 7 degrees - not bad considering there had been no heating for a month and temperatures here had been very cold at times.

Back in the swing of things now - don't know why people say there's nothing going on - we don't seem to have a moment, went to jazz, even went to watch the ballet, a mix from Kiev and other places east.  Then there was news of snow as it had turned very cold, so we we waited until the weather was good and the avalanche warnings were minimal.  Had four days skiing and three nights in B&B's, all very good, only had to put the snow chains on one day.

We're having a bit of a problem with the French tax system as it seems all our ISA's in the UK are actually taxable in France.  Ah well, we'll have to pay, at least the tax inspector was almost apologetic.

Now we're getting ready to go off to Myanmar for a month, more news from there if we can get connected.