Last few days

Three hours on the bus south to Jaipur, the "pink city". Hotel turned out to be only a few hundred metres from the bus station, but in a quiet leafy area. Went to have a quick peek at Jaipur, then shower, then very cheap meal. Playing tourist properly tomorrow.

Everybody comes to Jaipur to see the ladies' palace, the Hawa Mahal, with its beautiful facade and the City Palace, still partly occupied by the current maharaja. Both lived up to expectations and took most of the day. Not many tourists: people say that numbers of foreign tourists have nearly halved over the past 5 years. Chris had haircut and we both had a head massage.

On local buses to Amber Fort in the morning, passing the palace and all the tourists we climbed the elephant track to the top to get lovely views. Lazy afternoon before we take train to Agra tomorrow.

Picked up from Agra Fort station then dumped bags at guest house; went back to see the fort later! Up early next morning to visit the Taj Mahal - absolutely fabulous. Peaceful because so huge despite the tourists, has to be most beautiful building in the world. A super place to finish. All pics on J's camera, will post from Oz. Off to Delhi this afternoon, planes to Singapore, Brisbane, Mackay tomorrow. Here ends our vegetarian alcohol-free odyssey to India.

In the desert

Arrived Jaisalmer just before midnight and were met at station, taken to our hotel and given an upgrade: beautiful carved stone room in old building inside the fort. Jaisalmer is all yellow sandstone with lots of carvings on buildings and the Jain temples. Because it's so lovely it's also very touristy and at times seems like a huge souvenir shop. But a great place miles from anywhere on the edge of the Thar desert. Will try to get a long way north-east tomorrow, so 6am start.

A long but successful day on sundry buses: Jaisalmer to Bikaner (7h), then on to Sikar (5h) then the last local bus to Nawalgarh. And the bus you want out never leaves from the station you arrive at - perverse! But people were very helpful, making sure we got to the right place. Anyway, we made it and for  the princely sum of £10 for the two of us. Now ensconced in a traditional hut at the Shekhawati Guest House where we have been very well fed.

Came to this region (Shekhawati) to see the havelis - Persian for "wind house" because designed for ventilation. Built by rich merchants on the Silk Road they tried to outdo each other over the years. Most are now gently decaying, some restored, some just preserved. Anyway, stunning.

Next day our hosts suggested that we go to Lohargal which we think they described as a quiet temple and pool up in some hills about 20km south. When we arrived it was manic: hundreds of people bathing in the pool and having a great time. Apparently it was a festival day. But talking to a local seller he said people came from all over India and it was busy every day. So we say and watched a while, visited the Sun Temple then tried to find a quiet shady spot to eat our snack lunch. No sooner has we settled down than the front door opened and we had a long conversation with the brother who spoke good English while his brother and sister joined in from time to time. They brought us chairs and tea - great hospitality. Off to Jaipur in the morning.

Getting hot in India

It was Chris's turn for the Delhi belly on our last night in Udaipur, but managed to get up for the 8am bus to Jodhpur and survive 6 hours on the road. Our homestay turned out well, right in the old town under the walls of the fort.

Jodhpur fort is supposed to be the most impressive in Rajasthan and it is fantastic, certainly the best yet. Stuck up on a huge sandstone slab it's both forbidding from the outside and luxurious on the inside with great views over the old "blue town". About 37 degrees today.

Went for a tour of some local villages, particularly the "Bichnoi", 15th century tree huggers. Some well-off, some very poor. Tried to help our driver advertise his homestay better. Bought a hand-printed tablecloth.

Caught local bus to Osian about 60km north to visit yet more temples, very impressive again. Back for big late lunch before 6 o'clock train to Jaisalmer.

Pics Udaipur

Got it right now.

Lovely Udaipur

Udaipur sits along a couple of lakes and there are great views. It's quite touristy which means lots of places to eat!

Arrived early on the train that wasn't cancelled and got a tuk-tuk with Salim who turned out to be helpful and not quoting silly prices. So we booked him for day 2 but went walkabout for the first day. Found the tourist office who probably never see a tourist but got a good map and a bit of advice. Bought some clothes, visited a temple on way back then meal overlooking lake. Decided to stay an extra day.

Next day took in the views, visited a temple and royal tombs, the princess's pleasure garden, the city palace and a few other things before dining in luxury for a nice change.

Had car and driver to visit the huge Kumbhalgarh fort and the Jain temple at Ranakpur which has amazing carvings, but all pics on Judy's camera. Great day trip.

Fourth day caught local bus 20km to Ecklingji temple which was great but no photos allowed. Great thali on way back and bought a couple of miniature paintings which seem to be a local speciality.

Off to Jodhpur by bus tomorrow early.