Our one full day in Saigon was taken up with arranging our onward trip, then a visit to the Reunification Palace, a 1960's building to replace the original, bombed by a stroppy pilot in protest at the harsh regime. It was a brilliant building and state rooms, offices and the command centre were all open, so really interesting. Some great photos of the fall of Saigon too. Then we caught a local bus to Cho Lon, the Chinatown of Saigon to visit some temples. It was the last day of Tet and we got caught up in a parade with full Chinese costumes and dragon dancers; another superb accident!
Moved on to Vinh Long in the Mekong delta, arriving with no info and nowhere to stay. Got to the town centre and were approached by a lady offering a Homestay on An Binh island opposite across the Mekong so took a chance. Really peaceful when we arrived so settled in and borrowed a couple of bikes to cycle around the waterways and villages, very lovely. The main activity seems to be swinging in a hammock. The perfect antidote to Saigon.
Took a longer bike ride next day around tracks and lanes, eventually arriving in Long Ho, a busy river town. Back to the hammocks! An Binh island is on the French and German tourist route, but still quiet.
Bus to Chau Doc near the Cambodian border passed waterways of different sizes all with boats going somewhere, houses on stilts or floating. Although there are rice paddies, much is fruit trees, veg and flowers. Graves are randomly scattered in fields, orchards and even peoples' gardens.
Wonderfully lazy last day: caught a ferry across the river and walked a bit around the Cham minority village which is mostly Islamic, then down an alley where we spotted a floating hotel. Wide shady veranda with reclining chairs and empty. Perfect spot at the join in the rivers, so spent the day sitting watching the Mekong and the boats go gently by.
Spent today sitting on the boat up the Mekong to Phnom Penh, lovely trip and Vietnam passport control let us out (last day of visa) and Cambodians let us in with a new 30-day visa. Phnom Penh seems familiar as we were here before Xmas and our favourite street-corner eating place was as good as we remembered.
Heading slowly to Laos through north-east Cambodia tomorrow.
A lovely bus ride up into the hills, first past steep hillsides with waterfalls and hairpin bends, then onto a plateau where the forest had been cleared for coffee plantations. Approaching Da Lat (about 1500m high) we came on miles of greenhouses and fields of vegetables and flowers - seems like the garden of Vietnam. Da Lat is much bigger than we expected, a sprawling city in a lovely location, if you ignore the deforestation. Fellow travellers get easily lost among the locals so it doesn't feel very touristy. Quiet season for escapees from the heat of Saigon.
Great walk today to the highest point around, Lang Biang mountain about 2200m. Walk was 5.5 hours. Last half-hour before top was very steep and sweaty; needed hands on way up, bum on way down. Great views but hazy so no good pics. Recovered in the steam room and jacuzzi on the hotel roof.
Still amazed at how much vegetable growing and greenhouses, every inch terraced and planted. Apparently the best climate for this in Vietnam.
Next morning walked to the "Crazy House", an architect's fantasy started in 1990 and not yet finished.
Have been staying at Dreams Hotel which is brilliant; wonderful breakfast and real Marmite.
Next day our bus packed with Vietnamese and their bags and boxes, lurched and rattled down the hills, stopping occasionally to let the smoke disappear from the brakes, past an enormous new dam and over badly damaged roads to Mui Ne. This is kite-surfing heaven, a huge bay, very long beach and (probably) constant breeze, turning to wind. Not really a town, just a strip of resorts, hotels and places to eat. Two days lazing on the beach. There are loads of beach-side fish and seafood stalls so Chris is enjoying this. Lots of Russians here, many signs in Russian, even had to decline a Russian menu.
The bus to Saigon passed miles of dragon-fruit fields then a series of towns with little space between. Every town had a church near the pagoda, some still being built. The sprawl of Saigon started about 50km out and the bus crawled in, but dropped us near the place we had booked. Wandered around Saigon which was not nearly as nice as Hanoi, wide busy streets. Tasty meal to the strains of the Beatles then saw our first drive-by bag-snatching. Saigon is the thieving capital and everyone is on the make.
Forgot to say Chuc Mung Nam Moi (Happy New Year in Vietnamese).
A long journey from Hanoi to Hue on a 'sleeper' bus. Interesting arrangement with 3 rows of bunks, one each side and one down the middle, 36 in a mobile dormitory. Bunks were designed for Vietnamese so a bit small for me. About 13 hours of not much sleep; would have been fine if roads had been better!
Visited the Citadel and Imperial Palace which are being slowly restored but really lovely to walk around, especially in the sunshine. Hue is very different from Hanoi, but nice so far.
Hired 2 bikes today (1USD each) and cycled around a couple of pagodas and Nguyen emperors tombs. Surprisingly recent, one was mid 19th century and had palace, lake, theatre as well as the tomb in 14 hectares. Other was early 20th century and amazingly ornate with lots of ceramic decoration. Really like Hue too!
Nice bus ride via hills, bright green rice paddies and Da Nang to Hoi An which is very touristy. Ended in flashy room in hotel overlooking river.
Hoi An has several old buildings but is full of tourists and I think very over-rated. We walked around a bit then headed out of town on 1-dollar bikes. Lovely countryside with water and rice paddies, then hit the beach (sorry) then more cycling.
Went on a tour to My Son temples, smaller than we expected but a lovely setting. Similar to early temples at Angkor Way. Bus a bit decrepit but nice boat ride back.
Probably won't come back to Hoi An, not our favourite place.
Another long sleeper, better bus, better roads but awful driver, south to Nha Trang a seaside resort. Nicer than we expected and quiet now. On the balcony drinking Tiger beer after a hard day on the beach.
Off to Da Lat in the hills early tomorrow.
Train arrived in Hanoi about 0430 and we knocked on the door of our old hotel and got given a room for a nap and a shower and then breakfast for free. Picked up about 0800 for bus to Halong City to catch boat for trip in Halong Bay. We have one of the two big cabins with balcony over stern. Only 10 cabins so a small group - Danes, Aussie Vietnamese, Israelis, French, Yanks and us.
Hazy when we set off but sun came out as we paddled our kayak. Visited Amazing Cave (its name) and was very impressed. Scenery with all the many-sized rocks and islands spectacular and the sun was a bonus.
Transferred to a day boat to visit other places next morning. Some rain but another good day being tourists, including a short bike ride and walk. And lots of cruising around Halong Bay, in and out of coves, past stunning rocks and floating villages. In hotel on Cat Ba island for second night. Bottle of local wine 10USD in restaurant, 18USD on boat was 2.5USD in market. Will now have more!
Bus across Cat Ba island to the harbour on the north side. Chatting to an English couple we discovered they live in Jill and Andy's old house in Callington! Sun came out as we sailed out of Cat Ba and is still shining on Hanoi.
Wonderful fireworks last night for New Year. About 15 minutes of non-stop rockets. Back for a drink with the boys at the hotel and bed at 2am. Lazy day now after all our touring, and Hanoi is shut for the Tet holiday. Wandered into the park around the big lake to find all the locals dressed in their finest. Everyone taking family photos.
Our favourite watering-hole was closed but turned a corner and found cheap beer and good food. Passing a temple on the way back a group of musicians and singers started up - really good. A lot of the most interesting things seem to happen by accident. We really like Hanoi where life is lived on the street. And it's warmer now.
Can heartily recommend the Serenity Hotel (or Rising Dragon, same group) - great staff and position.
Heading south to Hue on a long bus ride later today.
