What a first night here! Went looking for a place to eat - a lot fewer than Siem Reap - the main criterion being a jug of cheap beer. Found a place early and said we'd be back, not sure they believed us. Turned up with a girl we'd met on the boat to find lots already there and all big tables booked for a party. They dug out an extra table for us and we ordered food and beer. Then the big party arrived and got going. We got dragged onto the dance floor and surrounded by Cambodians. Turned out they were the National Centre for Disabled Persons on their annual retreat. Got introduced to the big boss and had a very interesting conversation. Everyone very friendly, and 'honoured' by our presence, apparently. The only europeans in the place.
Spent today being tourists first on the "bamboo railway" that locals used to use between trains on the main-line. Because they had to get out of the way of trains, the bamboo carriages are kit-form: two axles, a flat bed and the motor (picture). Now just a tourist trip, you still have to dismantle your carriage when you meet someone coming the other way. Real appropriate technology.
Then to a temple up about 350 steps, then to a cave where the Khmer Rouge threw over 10,000 people to their deaths.
Very sad.
Lazy day today, main event was buying our bus tickets back to Siem Reap for Debbie's birthday (3.5$ each for 180km). Wandered around different places looking at older French-style buildings, stopped in a temple grounds to read our books in the shade and approached by a monk who wanted to practise his English. Over an hour later... Another temple after lunch, again more English practice. Quite enjoy it really - a small contribution.
Current budget is 10$ for a room with en suite, 5$ breakfast, 5$ lunch, 10$ dinner and drinks (for the two of us). It's the tourist bits that add up.
Discovered the Battambang BBQ & Buffet - all you can eat for 4$. We did the best we could (other pic).
Bus at 0630 for the 7am boat that finally left at about 7:30. Described as a 5-8 hour trip, depending on water level and other things. In the event, it depended on the driver getting around the bends which didn't always happen. Hit the odd boat, fishing apparatus, you name it!
But a fascinating trip. About 2 hours across the lake, then past floating villages, stopping at one for a lunch break. Then suddenly the river was choked with weed (pic) and it took a bit of forward and back to get through. Then lots of families living on boats (pic). The waterway was mostly through flooded scrub as you can see, but slowly land arose, first a few marshes, then some rice fields, then real fields, until the banks were a few metres high at the end. Not sure how long the crow flew, but it was a lot further by boat!
Forgot to say that it was really strange to see temple walls that were blocks stacked vertically with little horizontal overlapping - a very weak construction. No wonder the walls fell down.
And there is a real over-supply of everything here - clothes, tuk-tuks, hotels. More people selling than buying. You could arrive with an empty rucsac and go home with a full one for not very much. Double room with shower about 10$.
Christmas dinner was 6 shared Khmer dishes and 12 beers between the 4 of us for the princely sum of 22$. But no turkey or mince pies (or snow). The carol singers were rubbish, mostly American songs.
More temples on Boxing Day, then off to Battambang for 3 nights.
Up early Christmas Day to visit Angkor Wat. Hard to believe both the scale and the amount of carving. Took a guide for the inside info. Fabulous!
Then to Ta Prohm, a jungle temple where some Indiana Jones and Tomb Raider films were shot. Prepared to be unimpressed but it was amazing.
What a different Christmas Day!
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Spending Xmas at the No Problem Villa in Siem Reap alternately having lazy days and visiting Angkor Wat and other temples. Debbie and John love it here and Judy can spend time playing games.
Still some work emails to deal with and quite a lot of stuff from France. Difficult at times when internet runs at slow speed - two small pics of 250k is about the limit. Apols to those who sent big files but couldn't download sensibly.
Xmas eve went to older temples (10th century) which were made of brick. Then sunset near Angkor Wat. Cold beer very welcome
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Arrived very late Sunday and found our luxury(?) pad in Khaosan Road. Noodles from a street stall for brekkie then started ambling - 30 degrees and humid. Approached by a museum employee who told us the best temples off the tourist track. Negotiated a tuk-tuk for half the price and taught us the Thai for "too much". Nice chap. Fitted in a visit to the Grand Palace too - what (or wat?) a place! Spent the afternoon by and in the hotel roof pool. Had a great Thai meal and deceptively strong Chang beer.
Tuesday has us templed out. Wat Arun then the 43-metre lying down Buddha at Wat Pho which was a brilliant temple complex in its own right. Used the river to get around. Wandered through Chinatown faster than the traffic. Back to the pool then more food and Chang.
Bangkok is just teeming with colours and liveliness. We seem to be at the heart of it in Banglumphu.
Did a bit of shopping but failed to find any Marmite in the Tesco Lotus.
Next stop Cambodia.
Arrived in Phnom Penh Thursday pm and what a difference from Bangkok. Most
Traffic is scooters or tuk-tuk so much less manic. Terrific rain at night. Some lovely French style buildings. Wandered the streets and ended in Tuol Sleng prison where the Khmer Rouge tortured thousands. Very depressing and moving. Cheerful stuff next. Enjoying good food and cheap beer.
Did the palace and silver (floor) pagoda which were much more laid-back than Bangkok, more peaceful, more open. Then realised it was time to start the anti-malaria pills. More wandering the streets through several different areas, lots of variety and fewer tourists. Shops and stalls everywhere with so much stock. Had our first bout of bad stomach, but only brief.
Next 3 nights at a Khmer Village Homestay that turned out to be sponsored be Methodists. Two groups there - both from Singapore. What a difference! The evangelical lot showed Jesus films and did prayers; the other group of disabled teenagers brought gifts and showed Mr Bean.
Anyway, talked to lots of kids who wanted to try their English and saw lots of village life. Slept in a Khmer style cabin on mat on floor. Cold showers only and basic toilets, but we were better off than most villagers.
Lots of efforts being made to create jobs- a day's weaving on pre-industrial revolution looms could earn 3-4$US. The rice harvest is in full flow and a good crop this year. Countryside is nicer than the city, but most houses alongside the roads. Bicycles everywhere, scooters, mopeds pony- and bullock- carts.
Caught bus to Siem Reap and now with Debbie and John at No Problem Villa. Will send pics separately.
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Note from Judy that we forgot to say that our climb of Roy's Peak was the equivalent of Ben Nevis - 4000 ft straight up and back.
Found two gems on our way from Wanaka to Christchurch. Ophir is a former gold mining town with a wonderful old Post Office that still operates using the original equipment (plus a computer). All the old houses had great roses.
Oamaru on the east coast was superb - a real piece of NZ commercial history. Wonderful buildings from the local limestone (hence lots of things named Whitestone, especially the cheese factory where we did a tasting). The self guided walk around the key buildings took a good couple of hours and we loved the opera house (see pic) that had a beautifully restored auditorium. Mostly built in late 19th century and now coming to life again. Very friendly people too.
Not just great buildings and nice people but penguins too. Saw a few yellow-eyed penguins (rare) from a distance and lots of little blue penguins (common) very close up.
Stayed in Kiwiana cottage - bedroom bathroom kitchen living room all to ourselves. Very 1940's but luxury for us.
Some fascinating bits of engineering fantasy art by a group called Steampunk - not sure what google would give but have a look.
This is where we got the call from Donna about her getting married on 11 January so spent Saturday morning with the local travel agent (from South Zeal, would you believe) fixing flights from Cambodia back to Oz! Will have 5 days to plan a wedding.
Drove up to Akaroa on the Banks peninsula for Saturday night. This is a little piece of France less than 100km from Christchurch. Also very pretty (other pic).
Typing this in Christchurch airport while we wait for our flight to Sydney then on to Bangkok. Will send from next WiFi hotspot.
Have really enjoyed our month in NZ - will definitely come back for longer some day. Highly recommended! May post more pics from a proper computer.
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Spent 2 great days at Kaikoura watching whale, seals, albatrosses etc.
The hostel we stayed in was called the Fish Tank and decorated as such. Quirky or what? Went on a boat trip to watch the whales - what an experience, never seen one let alone been that close! The seals were lovely, spent quite a while just watching them play. Kaikoura is a magic place at the foot of the mountains definitely worth the visit.
Then over to Arthur's Pass where it started to get cloudy. Stayed here for 1 night and did the walk up to the ski station. 2 hours steady up but this was the view from the top. Hostel here was a shared cottage - just the 6 of us.
Then to Franz Josef and Fox glaciers on the West Coast. These are truly amazing! Great rivers of ice flowing down the mountainside. The picture doesn't do it justice.
Back over Haast Pass to Wanaka. Lovely drive up through the mountains, lots of waterfalls and flowers. Picture taken at the pass itself looking back. Down the mountains to Wanaka which is another truly amazing place. A huge blue lake surrounded by mountains. The first day we hired kayaks and paddled over the lake. This was great until the last half hour when the wind got up whipping up white horses and we were paddling back into it. We got soaked and quite cold.
Climbed Roy's Peak for great views on the second day. This was 3 hours up - quite hard but I think worth it for the views from the top as you can see. Staying in a hostel set up for the winter skiing, hardly anyone here, cheap and amazing value.
Next blog will be from Christchurch if we get time when we'll be leaving for Bangkok.
Spent 26/27 in Napier on the East Coast. Destroyed by a quake in 1931 it was rebuilt in Art Deco. We stayed in an Art Deco Hostel, the Criterion the best hostel yet, plenty of facilities and space. We really liked Napier. Streets of lovely buildings and set on a large bay with a playground for water sports in the inner harbour. Spent some time just watching kids in boats. Just a short drive away another beautiful beach (somewhat marred by the model) safe swimming, sun, sand....
Then on to Wellington. Hostel here full and a tad cramped but friendly enough. We like the hostels cos we can talk to the kids and find out what they're up to in their lives. A lot of travelling Germans here and generally in NZ. Wellington is surprisingly small but an amazing setting on an inland bay with hills behind. Did the museum , botanical gardens (very good) especially the rose gardens. There is also a walk to Mount Victoria which gives all round views - stunning.
Then to South Island and teh Queen Charlotte Track. Stayed on a small camp site, another cabin. Walked up to a waterfall with the best gloworms ever lining the track. The next day did part of Queen Charlotte's track which goes along a ridge overlooking the sound. Once again amazing views. We walked for about 15ms so a cold beer at the end was very welcome!
Next venue Kaikoura on the coast for a whale watch. Catch the next post for news of this.
