Back in Costa Rica

The transport worked: ferry, taxi, big bus across the border to Liberia (again) which felt very American after Nicaragua, then small bus into the mountains at Monteverde.  

This is eco-tourism central, a must for every visitor but even though it's high season, only the most popular things seem busy.  

Visited the butterfly garden for a very interesting bug tour, 

then walked around town which is full of souvenir shops.

The guided walk in the Monteverde cloud forest reserve was great, saw four more quetzals and learned a lot more then we can remember!  

The evening was a night walk in the Children's Eternal Rainforest Reserve where we saw other things, including a big tarantula and a tiny frog.  Pictures on big camera, sorry.  So a lot of walking today.

Quiet last day here, a bit of shopping then back to the butterfly garden.

Oh, and tea and cake to end the day!

Have been really lucky with the weather, only a bit of rain in our first week and an occasional bit of cloud and drizzle here, but we are at 1500 metres.

Moving on to our last stop tomorrow.

Ometepe

Is a two-volcano island, very peaceful but seems to be popular with French-Canadians!  Motorbikes, horses and bullock carts are the main means of transport.

Did very little the first day, relaxed by the pool and organised  onward travel, time will tell if it has worked.

Day 2 we hired a motorbike and visited the nature reserve at Charco Verde 

then lazed on the beach near Santa Cruz.

Next day, still on the moto we visited Altagracia where we were the only tourists.  Small but interesting museum.  

Lazed and swam at Playa Mango which was popular with the slightly well-to-do backpackers.

Long day travelling tomorrow.

Léon

Is lovely, less well restored than Granada so a bit more character, more real life, less touristy, apart from the young people who come for "volcano boarding" like snowboarding but hotter!

Has a huge cathedral, allegedly the biggest in Central America, which dominates the main square.  

And a fantastic art gallery with paintings from Europe since the 16th century 

and a huge collection of more modern including Picasso, Mondrian, Andy Warhol, Damien Hirst, etc, etc 

distributed amongst six old houses still with their patios.  

A real surprise.  

Caught a local bus to the beach at Las Peñitas where the sea was rough and the beach quiet.  

Then the Museum of the Revolution, interesting take on what was represented in the world press in the 1970's as terrorism, here they are heroes.

Off to a volcanic island tomorrow, near the border with Costa Rica.

Miraflor pics 2

J's camera 

From Miraflor 1

C's camera 

Off the beaten track

Caught the bus, 

half an hour up the main road then two hours to do 30km up gravel tracks, fording a river on the way.  It was Saturday and the bus was packed with people who had been to Estelí for the week's shopping.

Got to our cabin at Finca "Lindos Ojos" 

with detached kitchen 

and bought some food from the farm. Spent three days eating potatoes, carrots, eggs and cheese as that was all they had.  Fortunately brought a huge pineapple with us.

But it was peaceful and very scenic.  Had a long chat with the very interesting owner, and also her neighbour.  We took a guided walk and rode horses.

Will post other pics separately.

Today the bus journey in reverse then a minibus to Léon where we are now baking hot but the hotel does have a pool!

Estelí

Still in the mountains in the town of Estelí which was a hotbed of resistance in the late 1970's.  On the Pan-American highway so lots of traffic going past, but in the centre it's quieter, apart from the buses, cars, motorbikes and people! 

Rented a taxi for the morning to take us up to a protected area, past the Estanzuela waterfall where we were the only visitors, 

up to the hamlet of Garnacha at about 1400 metres with fantastic views, allegedly over three countries.  

Coffee in a lovely spot on the way back.  

Walked in to visit the local museum, a real eclectic mix from pre-Columbian to revolution.  The older part of town is lovely but probably rebuilt after Somosa attacked and destroyed it.

If we can find the right bus, off for a farm stay for three nights.  You just get used to a place then leave!